Well.......after all the heavy rain, the carpet is as wet as it gets... as usual.. guess either the window wasn't the problem or I did a bad job! Will have to get someone down here to spay while I watch with a scope...
It's wet p against the wall in the entire part of this photo, from right under the door to the cabinet till the mattress, most wet near the water pipes. Used a borescope and can see a puddle of water behind the cab.
@J3ff - how did you remove that floor sophit to expose the water hoses? Seen in this pic you posted? I'm getting frustrated with this wet carpet and the admiral is as well. BTW did you ever find the source of your leak?
@J3ff - how did you remove that floor sophit to expose the water hoses? Seen in this pic you posted? I'm getting frustrated with this wet carpet and the admiral is as well. BTW did you ever find the source of your leak?
I just pulled it out and used a screw driver.. being very careful to not rip anything.. I did end up pulling out a couple screws while doing it... what I've found is that the source of the water is behind that storage compartment where the mirror is... wherever my source leak is, it ends up pooling right behind the mirror area.. so far I've re-sealed the bow rail screws, the window and the cleat.. the only thing I have left is the rub rail, the hatch and the wind shield.. I still have no idea where it's actually coming from, but my carpet remains wet after every rain storm
I think I have the same thing..it's pooling behind the mirrored cabinet. I sesealed my windshield over the winter as well. But not sure how water could pool there if it was coming from the windshield. I mean the boat is lower in the stern so water would want to flow in that direction. Somehow I'm thinking the leak has to be more in the bow somewhere...but like you I have no idea.
I have seen many leaks as the result of missing, loose and uncaulked windshield screws and improperly designed installed channels. On many Rinkers you carefully remove the plastic strip at the bottom of the frame which exposes the screws. The screws can be examined and tightened, replaced and/or caulked. I only use a hand held screw driver to tighten/retighten the screws (ss screws only if going to a larger diameter) and tighten them "two fingers" tight as over tightened screws will prevent normal frame expansion and flex resulting in cracked gel coat. IMO, never use a power driver. I have also had success re-caulking rub rail, shore power and railing areas.
@skennelly I caulked all 4 windows ,in the area where my pencil is pointing and around the outside of the SS ring. used acetone for clean up. before and after.
Any progress @J3ff? Still happening for me. Wife wants me to rip out the carpeting because it's always wet and getting moldy. I agree but wish I could fix. Going to look at the windshield again and see if missed anything. I'm afraid to go after cleats cause that appears to be alot of demo just to get to
Any progress @J3ff? Still happening for me. Wife wants me to rip out the carpeting because it's always wet and getting moldy. I agree but wish I could fix. Going to look at the windshield again and see if missed anything. I'm afraid to go after cleats cause that appears to be alot of demo just to get to
Seems to be less, but still have some coming in.
I haven't had time to get someone down there with a hose.
I'm going to give it another try this week with a usb to tablet boroscope and a friend on the outside with a hose...
Comments
It's wet p against the wall in the entire part of this photo, from right under the door to the cabinet till the mattress, most wet near the water pipes. Used a borescope and can see a puddle of water behind the cab.
I'm getting frustrated with this wet carpet and the admiral is as well. BTW did you ever find the source of your leak?
I have seen many leaks as the result of missing, loose and uncaulked windshield screws and improperly designed installed channels. On many Rinkers you carefully remove the plastic strip at the bottom of the frame which exposes the screws. The screws can be examined and tightened, replaced and/or caulked. I only use a hand held screw driver to tighten/retighten the screws (ss screws only if going to a larger diameter) and tighten them "two fingers" tight as over tightened screws will prevent normal frame expansion and flex resulting in cracked gel coat. IMO, never use a power driver. I have also had success re-caulking rub rail, shore power and railing areas.
I haven't had time to get someone down there with a hose.
I'm going to give it another try this week with a usb to tablet boroscope and a friend on the outside with a hose...