Winter Projects

thepriceisright

Full outdrive service including a new gimbal ring, bellows, and shift cable being done next month. Having a few port lights rebedded as one of them is leaking.

I was going to have the factory swim platform removed as I think it's causing performance issues. It's mounted far, far lower than an aftermarket platform would be and it ploughs even while on plane. Check out this comparison:



I decided to wait till next year to do this as I'm already going to be in it for $3k probably for the outdrive

zaverin1

Plus 1 for swimplatforms

Lake_Bum

I did all my projects last year. Only thing on the list this year is a new tach,  oil and filters, impeller, wheel bearings re-packed and I'm boating 

rasbury

Wow, that is really low..

reneechris14

Endoscoped the flaps on the exhaust glad their there.

J3ff

Shouldn't they be closed ? 

zaverin1

Ye

zaverin1

Here is a customer boat
he purchased it like this last summer from a couple that got out of boating in a hurry.
yikes!
i will do my best to post updated pics 

Handymans342

What a nasty sooty thing that is

Willhound

Yikes! Hope they got it for next to nothing. Wouldn't touch that with a 10 foot boat hook.

zaverin1

I am not worried 
when money stops
i stop 
but yes I am not surprised that people still buy boats like that
this is a 280 rinker identical to mine 

zaverin1

On a opposite side
i changed all my plugs and they were all showing normal wear and could of went few more seasons lol
also inatalled my new block drains.

aero3113

J3ff said:

Shouldn't they be closed ? 

I don't think so, only when they are newly installed. After a while the heat makes them sag. When the engine is running the exhaust keeps them open, they will only close when/if there is a rush of water up the exhaust pipes. 

reneechris14

@aero3113 yes I agree was just glad there still there. 

aero3113

More like spring projects now! I cleaned and painted my drive with anti fouling paint today. New anodes will be going on also.

craigswardmtb

All kinds of stuff this year. 
Port swivel pin and seal.
New port gimbal ring. 
Bellows, gimbal bearing and shift cable on port and stbd.  I think I only got 3 seasons on my last pair and the port ujoint and shift bellow were leaking. 
Replaced leaking upper drive seal on stbd.
Bottom painted boat, and painted drives. 
Replaced rear trim ram shaft on stbd. Somehow the furthest stbd ram came off and bent the threaded portion of the shaft. Strange that the locknut backed off...
Zincs.
Cleaned and Waxed boat. 
New rear 3 panels if camper canvas. 
Fuel filters. 

In water to dos are:
Port manifolds and risers. 
Port Hardin water pump. 

Hope to be floating in 4 days. 

Willhound

Well, still very wintry here, so appropriate that this thread pops up again I guess.
So far this winter between me and my mechanic:
Full drive service including seals, bellows, shift cable, sanded, primed, painted, new magnesium anodes, replaced Mercathode anode and controller/wires. Repaired a torn screen on rear canvas. Cleaned up batteries and charged up.
Still to do, but need better weather: re-seal rub rail and port lights, wax hull, clean and treat canvas, install new anchor rode and chain, install new stereo/amp/LED speakers. Change out all cabin and cockpit lights to LED bulbs. Maybe tackle cabin floor and install vinyl. That one might be later in the year.

06Rinker270

@aero3113 lookin great.  What is with the bungie cords? 

zaverin1

Prob a tarp or cover
to add
always run a gap between drives and paint 
same for tabs 

GMSLITHO

Willhound what do you mean by reseal rub rail The PO of my boat went around the boat rub rail with silicone caulking it looks terrible Im starting to remove it but its going to take a lot of time and patience. I can't see any reason why he did it 

LaRea

GMSLITHO said:

Willhound what do you mean by reseal rub rail The PO of my boat went around the boat rub rail with silicone caulking it looks terrible 

Yeah, the only way to do it is remove the rail, remove every screw, replace with new screws and apply sealer when you install each screw.  Caulking the outside will never work.  

Oh, and about 25% of the screws will break off, so you have to use vise-grips to remove the broken part.  

GMSLITHO

Iv never heard of a rub rail leaking I don't know why he went all the way around the boat 

Dream_Inn

GMSLITHO said:

Iv never heard of a rub rail leaking I don't know why he went all the way around the boat 

It's actually not unusual for rub rails to leak.  Expect yours to leak once you take the sealant off.  The proper way to seal is as LaRea mentioned.  Very tedious task, but many on here have done it and can give tips.

aero3113

06Rinker270 said:

@aero3113 lookin great.  What is with the bungie cords? 

@06Rinker270 the bungee cords hold my tarp on.

LaRea

Yeah, rub rail leaks are common, but hard to diagnose.  Water gets in, but the owner never figures out where it's coming from, so the rub rail escapes blame.  

My 342 leaked bad until I re-did the rails. 

Handymans342

I saw no evidence of mine leaking when I had several interior pieces out. Only the cleats were leaking

GMSLITHO

Thanks for the input ithink for now I’ll leave it the way it is this season ,it’s the middle of April and I just cut the shrink wrap off yesterday 

Liberty44140

What would be the evidence of a rub rail leak? Mysterious bilge water or do you notice it in the walls and floor? I’ve got zero evidence but now I’m curious. Sounds like it’s sealing the screws that’s is key, not the stainless rail itself?

J3ff

Wet carpet. 

LaRea

All of the above.  To be honest, when I fixed mine, I didn't know for sure it was the rail.  It was process of elimination.  

In theory, you can put soap water on the rails, and use a leaf blower to pressurize the cabin while looking for bubbles.  In theory, it should work, but I've never known anyone who tried it.

But if you do the rails, you have to commit.  You can't "sorta" re-seal the rails.  In for a penny, in for a pound.