Maybe you had it all fitted in already. Looks to me also that it will need a whole bunch of extra bits and thinking I may option to just take it to NMEA2000 instead and show on plotter.
With just 1 engine, it’s a pretty simple connection at the engine, and signal goes to helm by Bluetooth. About only cost is the vessel view module. With 2 engines, you need the J- boxes and harnesses to connect the engines together and then to the module. Signal still goes to helm by Bluetooth, but those harnesses and stuff are about $300.
@dream_inn = is the winner funny looked and looked = just didnt get it its on now....cant connect to bluetooth the app opens =gps and speed nothing else
When you say "can't connect to bt", is your phone just not seeing it? Between all of us here, we'll get you thru it step by step. Maybe we can get a little "procedure" written up.
i believe i have ... then the yellow cap on the other plug attached to the vvm = yes samsung note 8 = vvm appears in bt. = when i touch pair device nothing happens going into vvm app = i touch connect ...it goes to scan for devices = nothing spins/searches = stops
Hmmm, phone sees VV, but VV does not see phone. If I remember correctly, it asks for a 4 digit code (like most BT devices)? Once it has power (which it does now), it should connect no matter how you have other cables/terminators set up. We can deal with those once your BT connects. I do remember there were times it took several attempts before it connected for me. Then I moved it up to the helm and it worked a little better there, but I did have problems sometimes with the initial connection to BT.
For those of you that ordered from this promotion -- how long did it take to get it, and did they send you tracking info?
I ordered on 3/25 and got a confirmation email, but nothing since. We have porch pirates in the neighborhood, so I'd like to know if I should be on the lookout for the delivery.
@TonyG13 I ordered mine last Friday (had a lot of to and fro with Wally to get clear what I needed and will post later as it is different to what’s been here) and also got he ack email. Hitting the site today they have up “**Please allow 5-7 days for processing on VesselView Mobile orders**”
Must have been a big rush to get the deal before it expired. I ordered two weeks ago and sent an inquiry and got this reply: "Due to the volume of orders, we are experiencing a few delays. I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this may cause. Your order is expected to ship early next week." So it'll be almost a month from order to delivery...
Must have been a big rush to get the deal before it expired. I ordered two weeks ago and sent an inquiry and got this reply: "Due to the volume of orders, we are experiencing a few delays. I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this may cause. Your order is expected to ship early next week." So it'll be almost a month from order to delivery...
It's worth the wait.
2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes" Go Steelers!!!
No. I had some very good discussion with Wally - great guy, very helpful - and sent him this and apparently the word doc drawing is correct for older (prior to 14 pin)
helm harnessing or helm harnessing that does not have the 10 pin SmartCraft
connector drop.Here are some excerpts of relevant points discussed and agreed upon:
Answering your three questions, here's the most economical
way to rig it: IF you do not have this power disconnect then we will want
to rig it the more traditional way and will take a few more components.
Get
two blue data cables (879981Txx, see below for length options) with termination
resistors built into the harness (yellow band) from each engine into a Junction
Box (J-box) – ideally this J-box is at the helm (get the 4-way without the
weather caps 878492T14, buy those separately if you need any , engine 10 pin
connector “may” have weather caps and not termination resistors on the very
early SC engines). Yellow bands on the blue data cables go at the engine
connection. If those capped connectors are yellow termination resistors
on engine, do not use them on the J-box. If there are weather caps
(purple backing) then you can use them on the J-box to cover any open
connections. Your VVM module will plug directly into this J-box.
The port engine will need to have its CityID changed to PORT (CityID 12).
All engines ship from the factory as STBD (City ID 11) as we do not know what
application they will be used in. This CityID process needs to be done with
a service tool (Rinda, CDS, etc), typically at a Mercury dealer. Should
take less than 5 minutes if they know what to do.
Background info and extra notes:
a) I gave him my 2002 5.0MPI serial number and confirmed SmartCraft (even though the air cleaner cover had the logo
b) Attached photos below IMG4459 and 4460 is the SC connector, cap on, cap off.
c) IMG4461 is in the same part of the harness back from the SC connector. This is a power disconnect and needs to be pulled on one engine if you have duals. If you have a habit of starting one before the other, pull the "other"
For me I am putting this all in the engine room so will need:
2
of the 889981T10 cables, this model has terminator resistors inbuilt.
1 878492T14 4 port jbox
1 M0115080 VVMM
e) Plug the 2 new cables into 2 ports, VVMM into 3rd and cap the 4th - purple dust cap only I reuse from one SC connector. Pulling the power disconnect from starboard engine.
f) He also mentioned that later if I wanted to create and plug into a NMEA2000 bus to my plotter, I can use the 4th port for that to connect to SC/NMEA gateway. Good to know.
Single engine guys - pull cap from same SC connector but you will need to put a terminator (yellow) onto the VVMM connector.
Extra info - I found this connector (IMG4462) near the SC one and asked about it and these are tank level inputs. The pink is tank 1 input and the
blue is tank 2 input on that 3 pin connector. It is looking for the
industry standard resistive input of 33 Ohms full and 240 Ohms empty. 1st tank is always fuel and second tank can be
fuel, water, waste, etc for our SC gauges. In our VV displays (and
compatible Simrad/Lowrance) the first tank can be set to anything (custom
labeling – live well, beer cooler, etc). So you can select what the second tank input is classified
as in the SmartCraft (SC) gauge or display. Coming across N2K, not
certain what options are available there but would expect similar (each display
manufacturer can do what they want there).
Thanks @Dream_Inn, I thought it may help others given I got a lot out of my emails chats with Wally. If only I could get the last pic to embed versus attach....
Icoutha, this is great! My boat is 100 miles north and still wrapped, so I won't find these connections for awhile, but this tells me what parts I need to order. Yours is a much more efficient setup than my word document shows. Eliminates the P Link Cable, Dual Engine Instrument Adapter, and 1 J Box. Love that.
The step I hadn't heard before was the "Pulling the power disconnect from starboard engine". Is this something done just during installation and then hooked back up, or is permanently left dis-connected?
I too will be installing mine in the engine room. Really appreciate it if you post some pics showing your setup after installation.
Comments
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
or
pilot error
help plz = thank you
coming off the engine
1st pic the yellow terminator
2nd pic with yellow terminator cover removed
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
funny looked and looked = just didnt get it
its on now....cant connect to bluetooth
the app opens =gps and speed nothing else
When you say "can't connect to bt", is your phone just not seeing it? Between all of us here, we'll get you thru it step by step. Maybe we can get a little "procedure" written up.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Go Steelers!!!
samsung note 8 = vvm appears in bt. = when i touch pair device nothing happens
going into vvm app = i touch connect ...it goes to scan for devices = nothing spins/searches = stops
again ... thanks guys
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
then open vwm app press connect = it connects and works
Super Cool New Mercury App
I ordered on 3/25 and got a confirmation email, but nothing since. We have porch pirates in the neighborhood, so I'd like to know if I should be on the lookout for the delivery.
I guess they have a rush.
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
Go Steelers!!!
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
Paul
Answering your three questions, here's the most economical way to rig it: IF you do not have this power disconnect then we will want to rig it the more traditional way and will take a few more components.
Get two blue data cables (879981Txx, see below for length options) with termination resistors built into the harness (yellow band) from each engine into a Junction Box (J-box) – ideally this J-box is at the helm (get the 4-way without the weather caps 878492T14, buy those separately if you need any , engine 10 pin connector “may” have weather caps and not termination resistors on the very early SC engines). Yellow bands on the blue data cables go at the engine connection. If those capped connectors are yellow termination resistors on engine, do not use them on the J-box. If there are weather caps (purple backing) then you can use them on the J-box to cover any open connections. Your VVM module will plug directly into this J-box. The port engine will need to have its CityID changed to PORT (CityID 12). All engines ship from the factory as STBD (City ID 11) as we do not know what application they will be used in. This CityID process needs to be done with a service tool (Rinda, CDS, etc), typically at a Mercury dealer. Should take less than 5 minutes if they know what to do.
Background info and extra notes:
a) I gave him my 2002 5.0MPI serial number and confirmed SmartCraft (even though the air cleaner cover had the logo
b) Attached photos below IMG4459 and 4460 is the SC connector, cap on, cap off.
c) IMG4461 is in the same part of the harness back from the SC connector. This is a power disconnect and needs to be pulled on one engine if you have duals. If you have a habit of starting one before the other, pull the "other"
For me I am putting this all in the engine room so will need:
e) Plug the 2 new cables into 2 ports, VVMM into 3rd and cap the 4th - purple dust cap only I reuse from one SC connector. Pulling the power disconnect from starboard engine.
f) He also mentioned that later if I wanted to create and plug into a NMEA2000 bus to my plotter, I can use the 4th port for that to connect to SC/NMEA gateway. Good to know.
Single engine guys - pull cap from same SC connector but you will need to put a terminator (yellow) onto the VVMM connector.
Extra info - I found this connector (IMG4462) near the SC one and asked about it and these are tank level inputs. The pink is tank 1 input and the blue is tank 2 input on that 3 pin connector. It is looking for the industry standard resistive input of 33 Ohms full and 240 Ohms empty. 1st tank is always fuel and second tank can be fuel, water, waste, etc for our SC gauges. In our VV displays (and compatible Simrad/Lowrance) the first tank can be set to anything (custom labeling – live well, beer cooler, etc). So you can select what the second tank input is classified as in the SmartCraft (SC) gauge or display. Coming across N2K, not certain what options are available there but would expect similar (each display manufacturer can do what they want there).
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
The step I hadn't heard before was the "Pulling the power disconnect from starboard engine". Is this something done just during installation and then hooked back up, or is permanently left dis-connected?
I too will be installing mine in the engine room. Really appreciate it if you post some pics showing your setup after installation.
Thanks again.
Paul
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express