How to open the engine hatch with the batteries disconnected

13»

Comments

  • luvinlifeluvinlife Posts: 501 ✭✭✭
    Buy one of these for $60 from Amazon.  
  • GrahamuGrahamu Posts: 921 ✭✭✭
    @LaRea, I must be missing something. If you connect a 12 volt battery's positive to post 2 and negative to post 1 current will flow from post 2 to the trigger for relay 2 closing the contacts. Current is then allowed to flow through the diode thru relay 2 contacts to the motor and then thru the diode to post 1 raising the hatch. I think that was the way it was designed to operate. I can't test it on my boat as everything has been disconnected in the engine compartment.
  • LaReaLaRea Posts: 8,069 mod
    You are correct.  With all boat batteries disconnected, a jump box on the override studs can raise the hatch (if both diodes are working, unlike my boat).  What the studs can't do is lower the hatch.  The diodes won't allow current flow in that direction.  
  • LaReaLaRea Posts: 8,069 mod
    And again, many boats do not have this arrangement with solenoids and diodes.  My 342 did not have it, and I could raise/lower the hatch from the studs. 
  • GrahamuGrahamu Posts: 921 ✭✭✭
    I should have spent a little more time thinking this through. I now see the problem with the negative return on lowering the hatch.
  • IanIan Posts: 3,062 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Exactly what we’ve been tryIng to determine - is there a way around it. Still in background @LaRea just too much end of year focus at the moment.

    Regards,

    Ian

    The Third “B”

    Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club

    https://www.rcyachtclub.com/

  • GrahamuGrahamu Posts: 921 ✭✭✭
    @LaRea, on your 346 where you could raise and lower the hatch did the posts become live when operating normally from the helm switch. My posts have insulated covers and the door is closed so unlikely to cause problems for the few seconds the normal operation takes. I know ABYC would not approve of connecting the studs directly to the motor but it's a simple fix.
  • LaReaLaRea Posts: 8,069 mod
    Yes sir, direct connection.  Here's the schematic (although I never verified it).  When pressing the helm switch, there would would be +/ 12VDC at the studs.  


  • GrahamuGrahamu Posts: 921 ✭✭✭
    I'm hoping mine is as the 2004 version. Happy Holidays everyone.
  • NickCruzNickCruz Posts: 81
    Hi everyone, I'm new to Rinker forum. I've talked to a few of you on my problems with my boat.  As I worked on boat I hooked a come along on the rail on top of the back seat, and other end hooked on swim platform. With batteries disconnected I just ratchet open and close with lift disconnected.
  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Posts: 4,414 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Glad that worked Nick but I’d be worried about breaking that hand rail on your back seat. There are people on here who have used those rails as cleats for dock lines and ripped them out of the fiberglass. I would consider you lucky so far and find another way next time. 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • YYZRCYYZRC Posts: 5,446 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @larea did you find a source for new diodes? My hatch will only go one way. All relays are new. Blaming the diode - possible?


    2006 390 EC
    2008 350 EC
    Georgian Bay
  • LaReaLaRea Posts: 8,069 mod
    @YYZRCIt definitely could be a diode not passing enough current to move the motor.

    There are two different diodes -- same size and shape, but opposite polarity.  Replace both of them.  I hope you can still read the markings on your originals to make sure which is which.  

    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/vishay-general-semiconductor-diodes-division/VS-1N1183/80442

    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/vishay-general-semiconductor-diodes-division/VS-1N1183R/81258



  • YYZRCYYZRC Posts: 5,446 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks @LaRea ! I ordered but after reading your thread and thinking more about it, I am going to bypass all the BS and add a DPDT switch at the hatch and be done with it all. The new actuator I added only pulls 6 amps. 
    2006 390 EC
    2008 350 EC
    Georgian Bay
  • FormulabenFormulaben Posts: 223 ✭✭✭
    YYZRC said:
    Thanks @LaRea ! I ordered but after reading your thread and thinking more about it, I am going to bypass all the BS and add a DPDT switch at the hatch and be done with it all. The new actuator I added only pulls 6 amps. 
    It's funny you say this, as my hatch started acting up and I think I have a failed switch. I ordered what I thought was a correct replacement, but it didn't have the correct number of poles, so while pondering that, I thought it was weird that the switch is at the helm when I should be near the hatch, so I'll probably end up doing the same. 
    2006 Fiesta Vee 270
  • YYZRCYYZRC Posts: 5,446 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The 390 has a switch panel on the port side refreshment area. I am moving the engine hatch switch there. 
    2006 390 EC
    2008 350 EC
    Georgian Bay
Sign In or Register to comment.