Radio replacement

rasbury · July 23

My music radio has been touch and go for some time. I had in my boat bag the radio info but it must be in the boat. It has an amp also that was factory I believe. Couple of questions-

I assumed these are just an auto type radio correct? For replacement, what does the radio use for an antena? I want to get something with at least one remote. It has one by the swim platform but being a 270 I can live with just the helm. If anyone has something left from an upgrade they would care to sell I'd be interested. Any recommendations would be good to. The amp is located on top of the TV cabinet and the radio is in the face of the cabinet.

PickleRick · July 23

I've been putting pioneer head units in all my boats. 120-140 range. Nothing marine. So far no failure.

For amp I'm using a little taramps 90 dollar amp to push mids/tweeters. Use much bigger second amp if I add subs. Amp from Amazon, lots of good reviews.

Powers two 6.5s, four 4s, and two 1 in inch tweeters my my yota. Very clear at high level to combat the soft top/road noise.

Thinking about doing the same in the Bayliner.

Just put a similar setup in the admirals Delsol.

I'm running cheap pyle 4 and 6 inch bar mounted pods. I figured I'd replace the crap speakers with some better speakers later but nearly 3 years of abusive daily driving I haven't blown one yet...knock on wood. I really just wanted the pods to hang from my roll bar.

Formulaben · July 24

I did a full JL Marine overhaul since I had good results with the last boat. I used the MediaMaster MM-105 head unit in the cabin, the MMR-40 remote at the helm, and the MMR-20 at the transom, with both remotes using the NMEA network. I swapped out the old amp for a JL Audio 8 channel amp and swapped all the speakers for new JL Audio, except for the aft lounge where I made bigger holes for the Wetsounds Revo CX-10 speakers. Having a 4-zone controller built into the head unit is very nice, especially when I just want sound in cabin only. I'm very happy with the results but wish JL Audio (Garmin) would update the software/firmware as I feel there is definitely room for some improvements/refinements in the user interface.

PickleRick · July 24

JL awesome but $$$. No one will steal my pyles when I'm not around lol.

rasbury · July 24

Guys thanks for the info but I'm not trying to build a space ship and I have no idea what most of that information even means! I've never changed out a car stero to upgrade or even have stereo equipment in our home- I recently changed my radio head in my 06 f 150 so I'd have a back up camera as I've replaced my tailgate and repainted my bumper 2x all from the boat!
If i can just change out the radio head and have one remote at the helm I'll be golden. The speakers sound OK, it does have an amp that i hope I can use- i can tell the difference in sound from a better system- but it's just not a priority for time or $$ to really up grade the system. My truck had been ordered with a big amp under the rear seat and I enjoy the great sound- ford stuff I always thought sounded good. If I can swap the head, wire in a dash remote I would be so far ahead of where I am at- it never really worked well. I think it is an auto type- I've pulled it apart and cleaned connections and button contacts with some success but I'd like to spend that time doing other things!
Thanks if you have any tips- i found one, I think, on ebay and will attempt to post a link. It looks like it's need to confirm the cut out size- I've read the DIM (or some other code) controls that size but it does not sound like on older boats there would be as many choices.

https://ebay.us/m/G7XcdF

captkevin · July 24

Crutchfield is a great resource on audio equipment

PickleRick · July 24

I've been able to install pioneer head units(the Jenson you posted would work the same) in both the land rover disco 2 and 2005 Passat that have factory amps, both really complicated wiring system, using installation adapter components I sourced from crutchfield.

On the Passat I had to call their tech line as I had some questions that they cleared up quickly.

Their factory amps are more like crossovers than actual amps, but either way they sounded good and didn't need upgrades other than the head unit.

mbnarney · July 24

I used this just replaced wire for wire. Wireless remote and I bluetooth sirius to it. Sony MEX-M72BT

Marine CD receiver

rasbury · July 24

Thanks- will look at those resources- I need to go by the boat as i had the orgional brochures for the radio and the amp which might guide me a little better- I don't want this to be my next month of trying to sort out wiring and such!
Thanks again- Rick

rasbury · July 24

mbnarney said:

I used this just replaced wire for wire. Wireless remote and I bluetooth sirius to it. Sony MEX-M72BT

Marine CD receiver

I see you have a like boat and for sure checking this out now-

Lake_Bum · July 24

Ras, please take this as good advice, and not me making fun of you, or anything of that sort. I've been on this forum for years, and watched you attempt many many different "do it yourself" things. The stereo is a perfect example of something that you should just pay a professional to install. If it truly is only the head unit, and not a re-wire of everything, just buy a stereo at a qualified shop (not Amazon) and pay them to install it. You not only get a quality install, you also get a lifetime warranty on that install. It WON'T be that expensive for just a deck. You won't be sorry

rasbury · July 25

@mbnarney I'm looking at this radio- if it worked for you it will work for me. Looking at the mfg site, it shows someone with a cable plugged in like they were controlling via USB? You control it with your phone correct? I don't see any mention of an app. I was hoping for something dash mounted so others could control the radio without messing with my phone. I have several speakers throughout- is yours set up the same? Does your have an amp? I'm not sure if recognize the brand I have other than "Planet Hollywood " which comes up zip..

mbnarney · July 26

Its a Sony radio-https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158MEXM72B/Sony-MEX-M72BT.html
It comes with a wireless remote. You can control everything with the remote. My Amp was fried so I just didn't even bother to hook it up. Its plenty loud enough for me.

rasbury · August 7

I did get the radio @mbnarney. I was looking at instalation- it looks like most of or all of the cabinet will need to be loosened to get the top shelf loose or at an angle to see what you are doing?

mbnarney · August 7

@rasbury, That is the worst part of the install. On my boat the radio sits above the microwave in the same panel. For me the easiest thing was to take that panel down and do all the wiring, Install the radio in the panel and screw it all back in.

rasbury · August 7

Wow- that would be a mess! Mine is above the little useless cabinet for the TV and the amp is up there too- so the main wiring harness, did you re pin the connector or just match wires?

mbnarney · August 7

Just matched the wires up to the plug that comes with the radio. If your amp is still good you may be able to use some audio plugs between the radio and amp. Much easier . The schematic for that is in the manual.

rasbury · August 11

So you crimped all those wires- looks like there are like 50 of them!

mbnarney · August 11

I had 6 speakers and 2 wires to each so there you are . Its a pain but doable.

Rich_ · August 11

Years ago I did away with the head unit and just got a Bluetooth dongle with RCA output that goes to a 4 channel Alpine amp I had leftover from my Jeep upgrade. 2 Bose speakers in the cockpit and 2 pioneers in the salon set at different gains on the amp and works fine. All music goes through a phone and can control it from anywhere onboard.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-XKmwitAXCES/p_13691180/JL-Audio-MBT-RX.html?XVINQ=GLX&XVVer=1J1U&awcr=699425553119&awdv=m&awnw=g&awug=9004592&awkw=pla-504079980672&awmt=&awat=pla&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18596130893&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs6jWhaqDjwMViDYIBR0dlDqWEAQYASABEgJSPvD_BwE

rasbury · August 13

mbnarney said:

I had 6 speakers and 2 wires to each so there you are . Its a pain but doable.

Nothing like a challenge..but did you use butt connectors/solder them??? I'm sure they have been around- i found some that have solder in them but I don't think it have them light enough for that small of a wire..

mbnarney · August 13

I used heat shrink butt connectors.

rasbury · August 20

mbnarney said:

I used heat shrink butt connectors.

I tried to find some butt connectors, i googled wire size for speaker wire and got average size of 16- but they look way to big?

PickleRick · August 20

Blue or red butt ends should cover you. If the wire is too big for the red then step up to blue. I don't bother with heat shrink although it doesn't hurt. I feel moisture/humidity will get in there anyway and it can dry better without the heat shrink. Your milage/opinions may vary, neither is wrong.

I put a little electric grease on the wire tips before crimping.

Get some good heavy duty Kline type crimpers.

mbnarney · August 20

I like heat shrink but I can't disagree with anything @PickleRick. Said. I bought a ratchet style crimper off amazon and I find it results in really good crimps.

rasbury · August 21

Thanks @mbnarney & @PickleRick- I did get the blue but loose. I have red but not the shrink wrap. I like the idea of the shrink- a blowing rain with an open door- who knows. I bought some of the heat shrink with the solder ln them but I don't see trying to heat all those up in a small area- thanks again. Trying to line up what i need. Yep, upgrade my cheaper crimpers for sure.

aero3113 · August 21

@rasbury , if the blue is a little big, strip the wire a little longer and fold it in half then crimp.

rasbury · August 21

Thanks for the tip @aero3113. I suppose also i can stagger the connections so I don't have a wad of connectors....I have to work this project in along with my other boat issues I'm chasing, installing new french doors on the patio, fixing my shed, almost have my moonroof out of my truck to fix that and my granddaughter has 3 thearapy appointments today and just had a colanoscopy yesterday...glad I'm retired and have spare time!

raybo3 · August 21

Let not get crazy with dielectric grease, it's not intended to be applied directly to a connection. It's supposed to be used after the connections are made to keep dirt and moisture off the connections. Should never ever be applied to the connections. It's nonconductive............ Just say'n

rasbury · August 21

Oh wow- I did not know that. Now I'm thinking of all the connections in my life I need to go clean - like every battery terminal!

PickleRick · August 21

Dielectric grease aka light bulb grease has been used for decades, it's pretty much standard practice to add it to a bulb base if you've ever had to pry an old rusty bulb out a headlight housing. Especially for salt belt or coastal regions.

You can't glob it on like a fat kid would want his Hershey syrup on an ice cream sundae, you just put on a light coat.

It will not hender your electrical connection when there's metal to metal contact like a battery terminal, crimp or spade connection.

We can also argue things like which oil is best or is crimping superior to soldering. There's no single correct way.

On the stand on/ride on fertilizer sprayers, if we didn't grease every electrical connection there would constant electrical issues in every system.

Even some outboard manufacturers will tell you to apply grease at the connectors.

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