Autopilot installation on 370

LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
Here's a quick overview of the Raymarine EV-200 autopilot installation on my 2007 Rinker 370.  I am a huge fan of autopilot, and I probably use it 80% of the time I'm underway.  But most of you already know that, so I'll just focus on the installation.  

The system components are:
  • Octopus Type R drive with 9-foot cable
  • Raymarine M81105 rudder position sensor
  • Raymarine ACU-200 autopilot control unit
  • Raymarine EV1 heading sensor
  • Raymarine R70 control head

First, the actuator.  For boats like mine with outdrives and cable steering, the choices are limited.  I used an Octopus Type R drive:  

   http://octopusdrives.com/type-r-drive-family 

This drive can be found on eBay for approximately one Boat Unit ($1000).  It has two parts: the drive cable and the motor.  The drive cable is a 9-foot worm-drive cable that bolts onto the boat's hydraulic-assist steering ram.  (There's no need to modify anything at all on the boat's steering system.)  The drive motor gets mounted in the engine room and attached to the other end of the drive cable.  

My power steering is on the stbd engine, and I mounted the drive motor on the transom at the port side, aft of the generator.  The cable routing is critical, because the cable needs to move freely back and forth as you steer the boat.  My cable exits the drive motor on the port side, then makes a 180-degree turn back towards the stbd side.  From there, it is routed along the transom to the stbd motor.  



This is not a pretty installation.  The gear casing of the Octopus drive motor is cast aluminum with no finish whatsoever, so it started corroding before I even took it out of the box.  I should have painted it before installing it.  



The next component in the chain is the Raymarine rudder position sensor.  Actually, when I bought the Octopus drive, I paid extra to get the optional built-in position sensor.  (In the photo above, it's the black plastic box with the grey wire.)  Unfortunately, the autopilot refused to recognize it, so I ended up using the Raymarine sensor.  I mounted it on the transom between the engines, and used hose clamps to attach the sensor arm to the outdrive steering bar.

In the picture below, you can also see the Octopus drive cable running parallel to the steering bar, just below and forward of it.  



The controller (ACU-200) is mounted on the forward bulkhead, stbd side.  I have a 5-port Seatalk junction box nearby for the ACU-200, GPS and EV1.



For the EV1 sensor, it's important to find a location away from sources of magnetic interference.  I mounted mine under the helm seat, and the location has worked well for me.  The fiberglass seat support has an access port on the port side -- just a piece of Starboard attached with four screws.  I removed the access panel and attached the EV1 on the inside.  You can see the three mounting screws poking through the Starboard.



The R70 control head is mounted at the helm.  I relocated my bow thruster control and spotlight controller, and put the R70 in that spot.  (I also added an i70 to display engine data, but that's not required for the autopilot.)  



Wiring is relatively simple.  There are four wires from the ACU-200 to the Octopus, and two wires for the rudder sensor.  The rest is Seatalk NG network cables.  Here's a diagram of my system.  



I have been really happy with this system.  I will admit that it took me a lot of trial and error to install the Octopus drive, so maybe this post will help others who are trying the same thing.  The system has been super-reliable and easy to use.  By the way, if you've never had a rudder position sensor, it's worth getting one even if you don't have an autopilot.  It takes some of the guesswork out of docking.  
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Comments

  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You still didn't show how the cable is mounted to the ram.
  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I took photos, but they aren't useful because there's too much other stuff in the way (trim pumps and other cables/hoses).  It's a simple two-point attachment.  One point is a collar that bolts onto the steering ram.  The other is a pin at the end of the ram. 

    It's easier than it looks, and the instructions are good.  (Both images below are copyright Octopus Products Inc.)



  • randy56randy56 Member Posts: 4,083 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Great pic's and explanation.
    Boat Name : 

  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,552 mod
    Great explanation!  thanks for the pictures.  I've seen the same Octopus setup on a Rinker 400 (MissKriss).  It really looks like a nice setup and I know he uses his a lot also.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • SeaHareSeaHare Member Posts: 189 ✭✭✭
    i have the same Octopus drive on my 310 but i have a simrad AP. It works absolutely glorious!  I will never own another boat without AP. I would put an AP on a 18 ft bowrider if i owned one
    01 FV 310, 5.7s carbed, B3s
  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    For installing the Octopus, there's a subtle detail that I want to describe better.  

    The stbd end of the Octopus drive cable casing is attached to the moving part of the steering ram.  That means the last few feet of the the drive cable will move back and forth probably 7-8 inches as you turn the steering wheel.  

    To allow for this movement, the drive cable must have a "service loop" before the drive motor.  That's why my cable comes out pointed to port, then makes a 180 degree turn to stbd.  

    In the doctored photo below, the red line shows the path of the drive cable.  The bottom part of that service loop would actually be sitting on the deck, and the constant back-and-forth motion would eventually cause the casing to chafe.  To prevent that, I made a loop from cable ties and hung it over the top part of the drive cable (shown by the yellow line).  

    The cable ties are a temporary solution.  It has worked fine for two years, but obviously I need a more permanent solution there.  

    The key is to get in the engine room and watch the drive cable while somebody moves the steering back and forth, so you can understand how to keep the cable from chafing. 


  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @LaRea do you see any issue with installing the drive unit on the swim platform ledge?


    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @YYZRC I think that would work.  You just need to get the right length cable.  I think a 6-foot cable would do it.  Mental note to self:  post a video of how the cable moves with the steering system.  
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It comes with a 6’ cable so I will give it a go. Worst case, I will have to order a 9’ and relocate the battery switches on the port side so that I can mount it in the same place you did. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2021
    @LaRea I got my drive unit today and I’m confused by an aspect of the installation instructions. Octopus states that the flats should be vertical, but all other advice is that flats should be “up”. 



    How did you do it?
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The flat surfaces should be vertical.  Here's the picture from the Merc installation manual:

  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    So confused. Ok, that’s the plan!
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    YYZRC said:
    @LaRea do you see any issue with installing the drive unit on the swim platform ledge?


    I mounted my drive on the shelf. Worked well
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited August 2021
    Where did you pull power from for your AP controller?  As per your diagram, it looks like you wired it direct to a battery (not switched)?
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It's unswitched, from the port starter battery via a circuit breaker (originally an inline fuse).  Only the controller at the helm uses switched power.
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks! Got the Octopus mounted tonight. Ended up mounting it in between the stringers. Not ideal but it gave the best cable flex. 

    NAC-2 and compass tomorrow assuming my N2K cable is long enough. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @LaRea maybe your difficult/heavy steering is related to the Octopus? My steering really sucks now. I’m going to switch back to “flats up” and see if that helps. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    To check for binding in the cable, disconnect the cable from the steering linkage by removing the cotter pin, then see what the steering feels like.

    The cable shouldn't add more than a pound or two of effort (easily overcome by the power steering).
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I made two changes - flats vertical and added Octopus. Will try with the flats horizontal tomorrow. Pretty sure the Octopus cable is not kinked but will check that too. Thanks!
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    No kinks. I switched back to flats horizontal and I believe I’m back in business. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    So here is my dumb question of the day. Calibrating the AP it says turn rudder max starboard. That means turn the wheel max to the right, correct? I have gone through the setup about 4 times now and the boat refuses to turn right on AP! 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes - turn the wheel clockwise.  But if it's not setting up, there must be an issue with the rudder sensor.  Which sensor do you have?  
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thank you @LaRea. I have tried using both the Octopus rudder sensor and the Simrad “virtual rudder” and not having success. But I might have figured it out today; will report back this weekend. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,505 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I never got the Octopus rudder sensor to work, which was disappointing.  I installed a Raymarine rudder sensor.  
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I might be in the same proverbial boat. I also have the Merc steering sensor that might work if I can’t get the octopus to read properly. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • SeaHareSeaHare Member Posts: 189 ✭✭✭
    My buddy had the same issue when he installed his octopus and simrad AP. It would only turn in one direction.

    Turns out he had the drive hooked up wrong to the computer.
    The computer has 3 termnals for the drive. MOTOR MOTOR COMMON
    You want to use the 2 MOTOR terminals.. NOT THE COMMON. Common is left open
    01 FV 310, 5.7s carbed, B3s
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited September 2021
    Oooooooooooooooo - thanks @SeaHare !

    This was my wiring.  Did I get it wrong?







    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • SeaHareSeaHare Member Posts: 189 ✭✭✭
    Hmm, I didnt think the clutch was needed for a Type R. Just the 2 motor terminals. 
    I would agree that you have it hooked up correctly according to the directions.
    01 FV 310, 5.7s carbed, B3s
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited September 2021
    She turns both starboard and port now! When I set it to “heading hold”, the autopilot veers off course aggressively (hard turn) and goes in circles. When I disengage the autopilot, the boat cannot be manually steered because it is jammed at the end of the steering travel. I had to open the hatch and reverse the wires on the Octopus motor to get it unjammed. F……

    @LaRea when you disengage the autopilot while it is turning say to starboard, do you have to turn the wheel slightly more to starboard to release the clutch, or can you immediately turn to port with no issue?
    Post edited by YYZRC on
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @LaRea your new mods list post reminded me to update this thread. I’m using the octopus as well and the clamp that holds the octopus actuator rod to the steering rack kept coming loose and thus caused the autopilot to go awry. 

    I hopefully solved this issue a few weeks ago by drilling an indent into the steering rack to keep the autopilot clamp from moving. I replaced the bolt (shown below) with a 1/4” longer bolt that sits in the indent. 


    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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