Yep, easy to install. Floor prep can take a while depending on the condition of the concrete. Small divots are okay, but high spots need to be ground off or they will poke through the tile.
So far, I've only had one tile pull up from hot tires. It's pretty easy to remove a tile and pop in a new one. Just warm it up with a heat gun.
Maintenance is easy: I wet mop, then use a fresh mop to lay down a coat of Zip Wet Look Floor Polish. I love the gloss finish. However, it's a bit slippery when wet. And when I get a little sawdust on the floor, it's like a shuffleboard table.
They make a nonskid version for commercial applications. It looks nice, but it's a lot more expensive.
Wow, looking good. For the shower niche, I bought pre-made boxes, but I probably should have just framed it and rocked it like you did. Same amount of work either way.
@LaRea please don't worry about over-sharing on here! You went through alot of stress and heartache on this whole thing. And you are bringing it all back to life. The fact that posts like this ARE on here, proves that the Rinker family is awesome. It's not all about just boating....
@Liberty44140 is your garage floor painted? If not, you can probably just scrub with a degreaser and grind down the high spots. Mine was painted with 2-part epoxy, so I rented a floor grinder.
LR, I really wrestled with a pre made niche as they are the safest/dryest bet, but decided I already had the materials and went for it on making one. The seams under the thinset and tape are siliconed for extra moisture barrier. Current garage floor is concrete. No high spots but lots of low spots from salt that will need to be filled I assume.
Skenelley, no on the membrane. Instead I did a moisture barrier under the cement board and niche.
Handy, those are my moms drapes from the 1980s. Drapes are Awesome drop cloths skenelly!
This week I realized something, with the Admiral's help: when I had the floor open in that master bathroom, I should have installed fiberglass insulation in the floor for sound control! Dumb, dumb, dumb. Simple, cheap and effective.
@LaRea , you can still do it. You’ll just have a ton of holes in your main floor ceiling (if you master is on a second floor). Some drywall patches and your good!
I've started the house project of painting all the rooms on the first floor (family room, kitchen, bathroom, front door/hallway area, dining & living rooms. I've been touching up with some mud each night this week (sure didn't know how much it needed it). No matter how little you use, when you sand it, it sure makes a mess! The paint begins this Saturday morning. I promised myself I'd only do one day each weekend, take my time and I won't feel so bad on Sunday. The ceilings are going to be the worst. I use one of those paint sticks which I really like. It's one of those things that you either really like them or you hate them. I've had good luck with them.
The dust control mud is certainly better, did the drywall in my bathroom with it, but you still have that nice pile of powder on the floor to deal with.
Agree it’s crazy how many nicks and dings you get over 5 years or so. I’m a big taper. Nice tight lines against trim and moldings looks so nice. Huge credit to the pros that can do that freehand!
For same spots use a damp wash cloth to smooth out the mud. For small holes use paintable chalk and a wet paint brush, best for crack lines fill and brush with paint.
Wow, getting great tips for mudding and painting from the Rinker forum! Whodda thunk it! appreciate it guys! I am also a taper. I like the crisp lines.
I had something happen in one location in the family room where I could poke thru the paint and like the drywall paper behind it had deteriorated. So I had a few square feet overall that I had to mud. Would love to know how or why it happened. It is not a damp area on the wall between family room and garage.
couldn't agree more. I do like the paint that is pink until it dries. But, not seeing what has already been painted is not as big of an issue for me, it's just the overhead that wears me out. I've had two shoulder surgeries over the past 5 years, so that will be fun (man I sound old). Maybe I can trust my 17 year old doing it, hmmm.
I have some of those old lights that only shine up that are known for burning down houses and heating things up. I store them in the basement with my paint and only use for ceilings. You can see everything with them!
I've done a ton of drywall over the years, including an entire basement at our family cabin in WV. I'm good, but it's a pleasure to watch a real pro -- like the mud guy working in my basement as I type this. He does more in 60 minutes than I'd finish in a day.
I'm with you Greg, I have no problem hanging it, bud mudding is an art. I did my entire basement years ago and had a friend who did it for a living come mid. He was quick and impressed with how particular I was with the drywall but said I didn't need to be because he easily covered it with mud.
I never thought about a larger roller. But, I'll stick with my paint stick.
I gutted our kitchen over the holidays since not hosting. Opened up a wall and installed 42" cabinets and replaced our dinner table with a granite top peninsula. Ripped out old floor and extended living room oak flooring throughout.
Drywall sucks and I'm a bit ocd so it has to be perfect...I sanded and skimmed probably 4 or 5 times before I painted.
It's the little details that take the longest to get done.
Comments
So far, I've only had one tile pull up from hot tires. It's pretty easy to remove a tile and pop in a new one. Just warm it up with a heat gun.
Maintenance is easy: I wet mop, then use a fresh mop to lay down a coat of Zip Wet Look Floor Polish. I love the gloss finish. However, it's a bit slippery when wet. And when I get a little sawdust on the floor, it's like a shuffleboard table.
They make a nonskid version for commercial applications. It looks nice, but it's a lot more expensive.
Skenelley, no on the membrane. Instead I did a moisture barrier under the cement board and niche.
This week I realized something, with the Admiral's help: when I had the floor open in that master bathroom, I should have installed fiberglass insulation in the floor for sound control! Dumb, dumb, dumb. Simple, cheap and effective.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Go Steelers!!!
I never thought about a larger roller. But, I'll stick with my paint stick.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Drywall sucks and I'm a bit ocd so it has to be perfect...I sanded and skimmed probably 4 or 5 times before I painted.
It's the little details that take the longest to get done.
I miss boating!!!