Yes @Liberty44140 , it’s in my backyard. I know it’s easy work but I would rather use my time doing something else. Just the thought of trying to mix the paint makes me think it’s a good deal, LoL. @YYZRC it includes materials and prep. I wouldn’t be surprised if two guys show up also. I’ve been pretty impressed with them when they do the shrink wrap.
One unthinned coat lasted two seasons for me. At the start of the second season I re-did the edge of the hull from the waterline down just so it looked nice.
I'm just saying, when I go to the trouble of painting, I apply two coats if not three. The goal is to get a nice, thick layer of paint. The thicker it is, the longer before I'll need to repaint.
Most bottom paints for power boats are ablative. The outer layer constantly wears away, revealing new paint beneath. If one coat lasts two seasons, two coats will last 3-4 seasons.
I would get into "discussions" with my old yacht yard. When they pulled the boat for winter storage they would do a "complimentary" power wash to clean the hull -- but that would also strip off a lot of the bottom paint, then they'd come back and try to sell me on a bottom paint job. I would have to keep reminding them I didn't want the bottom power washed on haul out.
I called and told them I wanted them to paint the bottom. They were at my house yesterday by 1:00 and finished by 3:00. 2 guys, they even primed in areas that needed it and removed the stands to paint under them. I think it was a good deal!
I called and told them I wanted them to paint the bottom. They were at my house yesterday by 1:00 and finished by 3:00. 2 guys, they even primed in areas that needed it and removed the stands to paint under them. I think it was a good deal!
Are they coming back to apply a second coat?
Read the directions. Ablative paint is like a bar of soap. As the outer surface wears away, it leaves fresh paint underneath. Twice as thick lasts twice as long. It should be a 3-day process. Paint, wait overnight. Recoat, wait overnight. Then recoat the high-wear areas (waterline, and the parts that are submerged when you are on plane).
My hull takes 2.5 gallons for two coats. Three gallons leaves just enough to recoat the wear areas.
I'm just saying: with one coat, you're sanding and prepping and painting again in two years. With 2-3 coats, you won't do it until 2025. Try it and tell me if I'm wrong.
Hi All, question for you, New proud owner of '10 340... seen this morning that my hatch is leaking over the galley. According to the picture attached, do you think the water is coming from the outside of the hatch frame or from the higher on deck and running through fiber coring? I am always getting anxious when water enters lol. Thanks!
Yes, you have to pry the lens off. Use something that won’t scratch the plating. I replaced my halogen bulbs with LED.
As the lens starts to come out make sure you are ready to catch it. I wasn't and it hit the floor and broke. Luckily Great Lakes Skipper had replacements.
Yes, you have to pry the lens off. Use something that won’t scratch the plating. I replaced my halogen bulbs with LED.
As the lens starts to come out make sure you are ready to catch it. I wasn't and it hit the floor and broke. Luckily Great Lakes Skipper had replacements.
I pulled the fixture out and used a small screwdriver inserted thru to the glass or interior bezel. Pushed it out gently. Replaced with LED pressed interior bezel and glass back in and re installed fixture. Watch the springs. It will smack your fingers hard like a mouse trap.
My AC was blowing warm air the other day. I had the unit charged (he said it was empty) and it’s holding a charge but I don’t know for how long. I’ll probably be replacing my AC unit soon. Anyone recommend a direct replacement? I remember reading that there are units with composite pans to eliminate corrosion.
The price of replacements is crazy. The unit in my 330 was badly corroded from salt air but I was able to salvage it. If not, I was going to do a 16k btu from here:
I will dig out where and who I dealt with when I replaced mine for you. Company was out of Texas and I think I got it wholesale. Plastic pan higher efficiency pretty easy swap out.
I replaced the AC unit in my 330 with a DTU 16 summer of 2019. Purchased from Citimarine out of Florida. citimarinestore.com. Jesus Pelegrino was my contact person. I paid $2420.00. I had to modify something on the boat to adapt to the fan size output? Dont exactly recall but it was not a big deal. I think the rinker has a black plate stepping down from the ac output to a plenum going out? had to do a minor mod on that i think. put it all together and sealed it with metal hvac tape. total job took about 2 hours. flipped the switch and worked like a charm. NO MORE RUSTY PAN OR CLOGGED DRAIN.
Hey @aero3113 do you by chance have a pic of your helm from straight on? I'm looking for the center line of the gauge panel relative to the steering wheel. I believe the tach should be at the center line but want to confirm.
Comments
Read the directions. Ablative paint is like a bar of soap. As the outer surface wears away, it leaves fresh paint underneath. Twice as thick lasts twice as long. It should be a 3-day process. Paint, wait overnight. Recoat, wait overnight. Then recoat the high-wear areas (waterline, and the parts that are submerged when you are on plane).
My hull takes 2.5 gallons for two coats. Three gallons leaves just enough to recoat the wear areas.
https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/12793/need-help-with-hatch-water-leak#latest
https://www.marinaire.com/Products-s/12.htm
I paid $2420.00. I had to modify something on the boat to adapt to the fan size output? Dont exactly recall but it was not a big deal. I think the rinker has a black plate stepping down from the ac output to a plenum going out? had to do a minor mod on that i think. put it all together and sealed it with metal hvac tape. total job took about 2 hours. flipped the switch and worked like a charm. NO MORE RUSTY PAN OR CLOGGED DRAIN.
Thanks!