Dry Joint Manifolds and Risers

aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
My 330 has dry joint manifolds and risers, my 242 had wet joint. I’m curious if dry joint have a longer life span than wet joint or the same?
2008 330EC
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Comments

  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I’ve read that with wet joint, you want to replace them before the water passages corrode and can potentially let water into the cylinders. With dry joint, you can wait until you see a slight rise in temperature because there is a highly unlikely chance water can get into the cylinders.
    2008 330EC
  • YYZRCYYZRC Georgian BayMember Posts: 745 ✭✭
    edited November 2019
    Are your risers/manifolds original?  How about your transom assemblies?  I'm fairly certain mine are original.

    From what I can tell, my boat spent its entire life in the Mamaroneck area.  I have the Seacore parts so I'm hoping the transoms are ok.  I'm debating having the marina pull one of the risers to inspect.
    2008 330 EC on Georgian Bay
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 22
    No, port manifolds and risers were replaced 8/29/14 (towards end of season) starboard were replaced 2018. My starboard transom assembly has a newer style decal than the port side, not sure if that means one was replaced or not. I don’t have any records on them.
    Post edited by aero3113 on
    2008 330EC
  • YYZRCYYZRC Georgian BayMember Posts: 745 ✭✭
    edited November 2019
    My transom assemblies have what seems like 1/4" of anti fouling paint on them.  The original manuals came with the boat and I have the serial numbers of the original transom assemblies so I will compare next time I'm at the boat.  Not sure how to tell if/when the risers were replaced other than to say that they are OEM Merc parts and I suspect the PO would have gone with aftermarket if they were replaced.  10 years in salt water seems like a long lifespan, though.






    2008 330 EC on Georgian Bay
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @Alswagg , do you have any input on when dry joint manifolds and risers should be replaced? I’m in salt water and my port side is going on 6 years. No overheating at all and I was able to keep my hand on the risers with the engine at temp. Do they have a longer life span then wet joint since they’re a totally different design?
    2008 330EC
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Port side was replaced towards the end of the 2014 season.
    2008 330EC
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLMember Posts: 6,573 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I may be way off, but, if you have closed cooling then your manifolds would last as long as the block? When I had my motor out I replace my risers but as the manifolds never see water I saw no need to do anything with them. I suppose if you had an overheat and they warped and leaked you would but would suspect if that was going on you have more than manifolds for problems...and I did get aftermarket.
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @rasbury, do you have dry joint?
    2008 330EC
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLMember Posts: 6,573 ✭✭✭✭✭
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    How long were your risers on for? How did they look when you replaced them?
    2008 330EC
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLMember Posts: 6,573 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The boat is an 05 and I don't believe they ever had been replaced until last year...
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    How did they look since they were on so long? 
    2008 330EC
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 2,360 ✭✭✭✭
    wondering the same about what needs to be replaced on a closed cooling system
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLMember Posts: 6,573 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The risers looked ok except where the rubber boot attached. That was crumbling. There was no visible corrosion on the outside and nothing leaked. I just assumed they had never been done. There are 6" spacers also and I just cleaned those up, they looked fine and kept going. I did get aftermarket risors from a recommend from another site and we're half the cost of the Merc and exact match. Best China can make. The Merc ones probably made in the same plant so I did not feel to bad about it. 
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    That's good to know. I would think the only reason it was bad near the boot is because the water can sit in-between the boot and riser.
    2008 330EC
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLMember Posts: 6,573 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I was really thing I would have to replace it all- I think I did all of it for less than 500 bucks...
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 1,805 ✭✭✭
    edited January 25
    Are you guys full system closed loop cooled or half?

    On a half system only the engine is closed loop, the manifolds/risers see raw water.

  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLMember Posts: 6,573 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My manifolds do not see water. 
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @rasbury , I could be wrong but doesn’t the seawater have to go through the manifolds to get to the risers?
    2008 330EC
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I see now, no raw water in the manifolds.


    2008 330EC
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 1,805 ✭✭✭
    With those being dry manifolds and closed loop cooled they would last 10...20 years...maybe longer.  The risers in salt water should maintain the standard 3 to 5 years. 

    Point being, your manifolds should never see salt so id imagine they would last the life expectancy of the motor.
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLMember Posts: 6,573 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yep.. I did  not really know it, but closed cooling was a must on my purchase and now I know why...
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 1,805 ✭✭✭
    If i ever repower a closed loop system would be a must.  Closed loop systems are rare on boats in my area. 
  • YYZRCYYZRC Georgian BayMember Posts: 745 ✭✭
    edited January 27
    @Aero, are you replacing your power steering ("transmission" in the diagram above) cooler?  I might do mine, I think it's under $200...
    Post edited by YYZRC on
    2008 330 EC on Georgian Bay
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @YYZRC , do you mean power steering fluid cooler? I was thinking about it, easy preventative maintenance.
    2008 330EC
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It’s strange they call it a “transmission cooler“ in that diagram.
    2008 330EC
  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 1,805 ✭✭✭
    If it's like the alpha one its easy to get to if you can stand on your head, i have no idea why they would call it a transmission cooler other than i run atf in mine.
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLMember Posts: 6,573 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 28
    I replaced my power steering cooler when I had my motor out. Where the temp sensor threads in had broken off and the PO had glued it back on! I would say unless you see a problem, not much there to wear out or a reason to replace as a maintenance item near as I can tell..whole thing is very soft brass and easy to damage.
  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYMember Posts: 4,991 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @rasbury , you don’t think the brass can break down internally and could cause a power steering fluid leak you won’t see? The leak would just get pushed out the exhaust.
    2008 330EC
  • YYZRCYYZRC Georgian BayMember Posts: 745 ✭✭
    edited January 28
    aero3113 said:
    @rasbury , you don’t think the brass can break down internally and could cause a power steering fluid leak you won’t see? The leak would just get pushed out the exhaust.
    Aero, are you able to find the part #?  I'm coming up with 863841T but that doesn't seem right based on the description ("Tube Water Brass").


    2008 330 EC on Georgian Bay
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