The lets talk about boat noises and I/O pontoons thread :)
J3ff
Member Posts: 4,112 ✭✭✭✭✭
Have a NEW noise - holy cow - this boat must be cursed, anyone want a free rinker 270?
New drive in, seems to be running great, 3rd or 4th time out, the clicking noise (sounds like a helicopter) is back! Mechanics best guess is Rideplate.. can't find any videos with anyone talking about it. Just gimbal noises and ujoints. Gimbal and alignment were done when the new drive was put on. About ready to call uncle.
New drive in, seems to be running great, 3rd or 4th time out, the clicking noise (sounds like a helicopter) is back! Mechanics best guess is Rideplate.. can't find any videos with anyone talking about it. Just gimbal noises and ujoints. Gimbal and alignment were done when the new drive was put on. About ready to call uncle.
Post edited by J3ff on
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Dude, you are making my boating luck over the last 8 years start to feel a little better. Sorry to hear about it. Please let us know what is meant by tide plate.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
I don't mean to hate on Rinker because a lot of the problems were my ignorance but...
The noise is a weird one, it ONLY HAPPENS in neutral, it will sometimes be evident when everything is cold, other times it isn't there when cold. If I motor slowly somewhere, say 5-10mph, and shift into N it will be there and it'll be loud. If I run it up on plane and stay up for more than 5-10mins, everything is nice and hot and when you shift into N usually there is no noise. Once sitting there for a few hours, start it up and BAM the noise is back, assuming it's all cold again.
One other NEW thing I noticed after the new drive is that I can hear a CLUNK when lifting and lowering the drive, it doesn't happen every time, but it's happened enough that I notice it and listen for it.
Going to try and get some video of it.
This boat has had 2 new gimbal bearings in the last 12 months. The weird thing is that it is perfectly quiet for the first 3 or so trips... but then the noise shows up again.
Mechanic says he's aligned it... Part of me wants to pull it out, pull the drive out and double check it, but the guy is a good guy, have to consider other things.
If I do pull it out, how do you guys get the drive off the boat without dropping it ?
Unless a stencil is used those gimbals are not perfectly uniform on transoms, and that is ALL on rinker... but i couldn't imagine they wouldn't use one... an 1/8th in matters... could be difference in alignment parameters with one boat eating bearings and another not...
Add some grease to the gimbal... does it lessen the whoosh of helicopters bit it comes back?
I bet the guy installed one of those bad runs of bearings... I'd wager on that, actually. Did he turn the engine during alignment?
Its been my experience aligning is like tuning a guitar... always tune by tightening the strings not loosening... the strings can grip on the bridge or nut and lose tune as soon as you start to play... same with aligning in that LIFTING the engine is foolproof... going past lift and dropping it down on the mount posts may allow the engine to hang up and not rest firmly on the base of the post. But it will "fall" after running a little whether the top nut was tight or not prior, and fall enough to lose the perfect alignment you want....
A somewhat decent way to discover this? Check the torque on the top nut and see if it spins easy... it shouldnt... if it does the engine may have been aligned "falling" instead of "rising", and it fell that distance to the seat after use..... and out of alignment.... and ate another gimbal bearing.... and even if that bearing was one of the 'good' ones.
In my mind this points to bad alignment that's destroying G bearings, but what do I know.
If it grenades all between you and the pond you sit is the bellow and bilge pump, and the bellow is in peril with chunks of metal flying about in a confined area. That cordov... uh, cordevo... uh.. dang it that double hinged ujoint gizmo will slap about like a hammer destroying everything in its vicinity.
The drive is turning all the way down to the lower foot in gear or neutral... unloaded (neutral) there is no resistance, or little resistance... when in gear the shaft is held firmly against one side allowing a theoretical gap on the other (really just unloaded)... even in perfect alignment this load unload happens but its more pronounced out of alignment... really squashing one side and really reducing load on the other... the internal grease is pushed around from side to side, heating one side as its squashed and grease escapes, and not redistributing to the other side as it isnt loaded.... one side has flattened bearings in no time... the other picks up the shrapenal from those flats. How long until heat and shrapnel cut the seal?
Maybe it redistributes when cold because its not ready to fail yet... maybe as it heats those flattened bearings void get some grease between them and their walls until you start that heat cycle and redistribution again...
All the while, equal load, "quench" if you would, allows all parts to be happy and not complain. And last a long time.
Check your max trim measurement eye to eye... running too much trim will eat those things too.
PC BYC, Holland, MI