Removing drives, engines and transom assemblies.

GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭

EDIT on January 12, 2021, this job changed dramatically.

Hi everyone, I'm new on the site but have been reading a lot of the posts which have been very helpful. This will be a similar post to @Le Rea but felt it best to start a new thread. We purchased a 2006 342  in mid  August this year. It is powered by twin Mercruiser 350 MPI/ Bravo 3 drives. Being in the boat  repair business for many years I know how important it is to obtain a detailed hull survey before buying. The surveyor spent 4 hours going over the boat. A number of small issues, to me, were noted but he found high moisture readings in the engine compartment and engine bearers. However  the soundings with a hammer were fine. I know that encapsulated marine ply can show high readings and yet a core sample is dry. I have a good idea the number of hours it would take to re & re drives and one engine and also to do and investigation into whether there are some leaks somewhere in the compartment  or transom. The seller was aware of the moisture readings from his survey but chose to ignore it. My surveyor said that there are no structural problems now but may manifest in years down the road. We negotiated the price down and are now proud owners of a Rinker 342. We spent 3 days anchored out in Georgian Bay and the trucked the boat down to Port  Credit. We then spent a few weeks cruising on and off on Lake Ontario and a small part of the Trent Canal. We made notes of various things that needed fixing and now we are inside the shop starting to deal with them and the major job. I think that is enough writing, I'm a one finger typist, and will start posting our findings and solutions. Probably won't be everyday as I only post on our home computer and my wife is now working from home fulltime thanks to Covid. Stay safe.


Post edited by Grahamu on
«1345

Comments

  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Welcome to the Rinker world the 342 is a great boat. I'm sure you will enjoy it.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • randy56randy56 Member Posts: 4,083 ✭✭✭✭✭
    welcome, there's a few experanceed 342 owners on here, that between all of them have good working experance to help. 
    Boat Name : 

  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,503 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @Grahamu welcome to the forum!  Great boat ... I had one for ten years.  I guess you're reading my other thread, so you'll see what an "over the top" rebuild looks like.  Are there any signs of leakage in the steering pins at the top off the transom assemblies?  
  • raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,455 admin
    Welcome to the RBOC the 342 is an awesome boat
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,318 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Welcome! I had the same boat, same year, same engine package, for years and loved it. Looking forward to watching your project progress. 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Thank you all for your welcome. @LaRea I haven't removed the port engine yet. I am waiting on a junction box from Mercury to complete the install of Vessel View Mobile, should be today or Friday. The boat has always been in freshwater and I can  see no corrosion at this point. Is there a recommended size for downloading photos? Hope all south of the border can enjoy Thanksgiving.
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Still waiting for Mercury part so I'll post some smaller jobs that I have been working on.
    When I first saw this valve I thought great, that makes winterizing easy, Well after 15 mins of trying to suck antifreeze I took the valve stem out and found that it was backwards and not able to change it. I have now turned the valve upside down, next year should be a breeze.
  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,503 ✭✭✭✭✭
    BTW you can post any size photo.  
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Thanks re size. Both drives were removed, drained, pressure tested, re-filled and all new magnesium anodes installed. Noticed that the rams were very difficult to move up and down due to being overtightened so much so that the STBD drive wear plates were broken and needed replacing.
    There was very slight movement in the gimbal ring, it was recommended to slacken the nuts on the u bolt and retighten to the correct torque, see attached.
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Trying to gain access to the back of the breaker panel but something seems to be holding it in, I can move it about 1/2 inch inboard. If the microwave is removed is there an opening there, any suggestions?
  • bella-vitabella-vita Member Posts: 411 ✭✭✭
    You have to remove the refrigerator below it , behind fridge wires r tied all together they need slack
    2002 Rinker FV 342
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Thanks, I'll try that today.
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Fridge is out and I cut the zip ties holding the wires together. Managed to get the panel out about 2" . The stove top counter seems to be restricting the wires a bit so decided to try and remove it. Removed every visible bracket and screws but the counter is not moving on the side next to the head, not sure why. Maybe I will get someone to push up on the wires while I try and pull the panel tomorrow.
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Did you unplug the microwave behind the panel?
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    I tried to remove the microwave, it's loose but doesn't pull out. Not sure if it's original, it's an Emerson. Still not enough room to get behind the panel, need another 3 - 4". 
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The microwave power cord plugs into the back of the panel and it’s short 
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Thank you for your help, panel now in a position where I can work on the DC side. None of the panel lights were working, thought it might be the breaker but it's fine, all the bulbs were burnt out. Found a couple of replacements and tested OK.
    The SensaTank II monitor 2/3 light is not working for both tanks. Not sure if I want to buy the Level Guard kit which looks the same.
    I am not a fan of breakers that cannot be turned off and I will be looking for a replacement.
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Put LED bulbs in!!
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Also tighten every connection. 
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Yes, all other lights on the boat are LED, I will look for a replacement.
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    A lot of us did our panels with LED bulbs. Superbrightleds.com
  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,318 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes agree with Handy, there are posts on here with links to the bulbs, now is the time to change them all to led as they start going out at 10 years 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • IanIan Member Posts: 2,774 ✭✭✭✭
    Grahamu said:

    There was very slight movement in the gimbal ring, it was recommended to slacken the nuts on the u bolt and retighten to the correct torque, see attached.
    Did that fix it?

    Regards,

    Ian

    The Third “B”

    Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club

    https://www.rcyachtclub.com/

  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Hi @icoultha no waiting to service the transom assy before installing drives. Been told after initial torqueing to re-check it a couple of times a few days apart. I am fortunate that the mechanical service manager in the shop is an ex Mercury Marine Technical trainer (20+ yrs). It is also recommended to check it once a year.
    Re LEDs I have checked Superbrightleds but also checking Canadian sources as shipping and duty can add to the cost. Is BA9S-WW-120-12vac the right bulb for the panel?
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Port engine is out, some water from the engine in bilge, will wait until next week to start checking moisture levels. No leaks are evident at this point.
  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,503 ✭✭✭✭✭
    When you disconnected the y-pipe, did you find evidence of water leaking from the seals?  Mine had some leaks on the starboard engine.  
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    No evidence of any leaks on the engine removed, the hoses and flappers all look in good shape. So far visually  everything looks OK. The moisture readings and soundings will determine if I remove the STBD engine next week.
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Good day/ Bad day today. The engine bed and stringers where I thought from the survey I would have a problem with moisture are checking out OK, reasonable levels and soundings consistent with other areas in the boat. It has now been out of the water inside for 2 months. Transom is another problem. It was noted in the survey about high moisture readings outboard of the  port transom assembly. Checking today with our moisture meter it was off the scale and soundings dull. Next step will be to remove the transom assy and see what repairs are needed. Noticed some light staining under the stbd transom assy but where I could gain access the levels and soundings were reasonable. I plan on removing the house bank of 6V batteries as I do not know their age or condition and then probably remove that engine to get better access.

  • LaReaLaRea Member Posts: 7,503 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Staining under the stbd transom assembly -- you mean inside?  Would that be from water leaking in and exiting at the bottom?  Here's what my port (the worse of the two) looked like.  Keep in mind, this is from muddy Potomac water leaking in from the steering pin.  


  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Hmm don't know what happened I replied and it's disappeared. No it does not look like that, just light staining on the inside on the fiberglass. I will try and take a photo tomorrow.
Sign In or Register to comment.