@oscar1 you can also connect this inverter directly in-line with the AC power source without killing off one of the shorepower inputs like I did.
If you do it that way, the AC input on the inverter would be the shorepower main (either port or starboard) and the AC output would be to the panel. This way, when connected to shorepower, the inverter is just a pass-through (and a charger). As soon as you disconnect the shorepower, the inverter would kick in instantly to provide AC power to the panel.
I didn't want to do this because I leave most of my breakers on (charger, thruster charger, fridges, etc) and I didn't want my inverter powering those things by default.
I didn't notice any difference with respect to hull slap but I haven't gotten down low enough yet as Amazon ran out. I need to do the compartment where the bow thruster is mounted.
I swam around to the bow today and listened to the hull slap and it's coming from the strakes at the bow. As the ripples come in they are forced up at the horizontal flat strakes which is what you hear inside the boat. I am wondering if a canvas cover deployed over the bow at anchor would stop it? Maybe someone else has an idea?
My 2014 Rinker EC 310 with 2 X 350 Mags with B llls and 2016 Rinker EC 360 with 2 x 502 Mags with B lll X drives were absolutely perfectly matched right from Rinker. Both were super fast out of the hole (didn't really need the trim tabs) very stable and would plane beautifully at anywhere from 3100-3500 depending on the load, temperature, humidity and wind. I came across a lot of captains who had done prop mods on Rinkers, especially the 350/360 hulls and none beat the set-up that came from Rinker. At a certain point too many blades whether for air or water usage decrease performance. I think, as usual, Oscar1's information is both insightful and valid.
My 2014 Rinker EC 310 with 2 X 350 Mags with B llls and 2016 Rinker EC 360 with 2 x 502 Mags with B lll X drives were absolutely perfectly matched right from Rinker. Both were super fast out of the hole (didn't really need the trim tabs) very stable and would plane beautifully at anywhere from 3100-3500 depending on the load, temperature, humidity and wind. I came across a lot of captains who had done prop mods on Rinkers, especially the 350/360 hulls and none beat the set-up that came from Rinker. At a certain point too many blades whether for air or water usage decrease performance. I think, as usual, Oscar1's information is both insightful and valid.
Rinker was still offering the smaller engines in the 370ex at the end of its production run - so maybe they “got it right” with the combo that you bought but there are plenty of 350/360/370s out there that were not so “right” by your assessment.
I wish I had digital throttle/shift, but I don't want for more power.
Removed the cable TV inlet and swapped the forward shore power inlet to the sternmost position. Glassed on the back and fairing compound done. Gel in a couple weeks.
Has anyone with a 330/340/350/360 added a drain for the “parcel shelf”? My water heater is leaking a bit at the engine loop connection and I can’t get it to stop (even after trimming the hose + new clamp). Water is trapped on the shelf - annoying to keep vacuuming it up.
And that’s why I don’t trust drinking the water/using the ice on the boat! Between the hoses on the boat and the piping from the city side, things can get nasty!
What’s the diameter of that hose. Looks large in the picture. I’ve checked most of mine over the years and not only use the ice in my drinks but also drink water out of it. You can also run some bleach thru it once a year if you are concerned. I do have a filter on the fill hose that is for drinking water and only 3 ft long
If any of you ever saw the inside of a municipal water supply pipe or even a private well pipe you'd lose your sh!t. That hose @oscar1 is showing is pristine by comparison. Use a decent supply to fill the tank and either throw an RV water tank freshener or a quarter cup bleach in the tank from time to time and you could use it for surgery......
@Willhound I have toured the water intake/filtration plant here in Toronto and yes the sediment ponds are quite slimy and unappealing. They also flow millions of gallons per year and always submerged. The filler hose should be dry (albeit humid) most of the time.
New injectors installed. Was a very easy process. Had to remove the IAC valve assembly and the spark arrestor, otherwise it was just unbolt the fuel rails (4 bolts) and pull up to remove.
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If you do it that way, the AC input on the inverter would be the shorepower main (either port or starboard) and the AC output would be to the panel. This way, when connected to shorepower, the inverter is just a pass-through (and a charger). As soon as you disconnect the shorepower, the inverter would kick in instantly to provide AC power to the panel.
I didn't want to do this because I leave most of my breakers on (charger, thruster charger, fridges, etc) and I didn't want my inverter powering those things by default.
I am going to study my electrical setup in the boat to see which way is the most effect for my boat. Thx
I wish I had digital throttle/shift, but I don't want for more power.
It was a very easy job to replace it, though. For once.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
@Willhound I have toured the water intake/filtration plant here in Toronto and yes the sediment ponds are quite slimy and unappealing. They also flow millions of gallons per year and always submerged. The filler hose should be dry (albeit humid) most of the time.