The fuel pressure should not drop at all when rpm drops. This should be constant Verify clean ground. Reconnect orange wire at alternator. Upcoming new cool fuel module assembly with regulator
I msy have have some time later today. Where is this orange wire, where does it connect? Also you mentioned a upcoming new cool fuel module with regulator. These are new ones coming out? Or are you saying I need to be looking there next.
If you watch in my video the fuel pressure rises as engine speeds up and falls off as the rpms decresase. This tells me the vaccum regulator is working properly. Im thinking there is a fault in this cool fuel pump.
I have the same engine in my 2004 232BR. Have you replaced the fuel filter ahead of the fuel/water filter. Mine is between the tank and the fuel module and is shown as #27 in link. I have been following this from problem from the beginning and just thought about it today. I don't think many people even know about this pre-filter. Just thought I'd throw it out there.
Man, I'm gutted thought it was the pump. Some great suggestions above so far though. I would reduce components in order to isolate as a first step, this would include:
(as Al and Drew mentioned) remove reduce electrical components by removing isolator and charging system. Remove one battery from charging system and use that as test start battery, ensure the positive and more importantly ground are clean back to engine connections. Connect orange alternator cable direct to alternator out put and starter connection to positive battery.
Add external fuel tank and remove filters (inline/external) Connect hose direct from Gen II module to external tank. Making sure the external tank is clean and no contaminants are present, you don't want to ruin those new injectors.
Now comes the troubleshooting, start at the fuel ingress and make sure you have constant fuel pressure. I would have thought, and I haven't tested this, that only vacuum (regulator) or electric issues would cause the pump to reduce pressure when increasing RPM. Someone may be able to confirm...?
"Pipe Dream" 2002 Rinker 342 Fiesta Vee 2 x 350 MAG MPI Horizon Petrol
The fuel pressure drop concerns me If the fuel pressure would be stable with an ignition problem. I would look at fuel/power to the fuel pump
Al, Did you watch the video i posted? The fuel pressure doesnt drop and stay down it has blips. I ordered some clear fuel line to see if we are getting air into the system. Would air bubbles cause the gauge to drop like that?
I'm going to nail my colors to the mast here. It can only be one of three things. An air leak between the gas and the lift pump. A failure of the lift pump or power to the lift pump. An obstruction between the lift pump and the high pressure pump. I am no expert on this particular engine so feel free to call me out on it.
I have also concluded it must be one of these things.
1. Air leak in fuel supply
2. Faulty high pressure pump
3. Restriction on boat side fuel system. (This was formerly checked via 5 gallon fuel cell and determined not at fault. However now I discovered boost pump was faulty I'm rechecking this again.
I have ordered some test gear and will be back after it next weekend. Currently having both transoms rebuilt.
I would be amazed if a faulty high pressure pump produced these symptoms. As you mention that you did the fuel isolation test with a defective boost pump, I agree the fault could also be boatside fuel restriction, so add that to my list. Indeed, fuel restriction or air may have led to the early failure of the pump.
Dalek, I have the same thoughts. Before ordering a new hp pump I have a few more test. I'm going to measure the restriction on boat side fuel system at wot, then I ordered some clear fuel line to verify no air is in the fuel line. I have a 5 gallon tank and a primer bulb to assist the fuel pressure with. I'm also pulling the cool fuel system to verify regulator screen is clear. If all looks well my last thought is a big one....
Mercruiser stopped selling the high pressure pump by itself and now it only comes as a kit with the fuel cooler. Why did they do this?? After inquiring I have learned that the cooler was notoriously leaking and people were only replacing the pump. Is it possible that I have a fracture where the fuel is being cooled and at higher pressure I'm ingesting water??? I don't know, but the plugs do have a rusty color to them.
These test will eliminate boat side fuel system, high pressure pump, regulator, fuel cooler and air in the lines. If non of these then I'll probably lose a few more hairs.
If the regulator screen was blocked the rail pressure would go up, not down. In your video, as the manifold pressure decreases, the injection pressure increase, which is correct, so I believe the regulator and the manifold pick-up are OK. Surely, if the fuel cooler was leaking it would inject fuel into the water, not water into the fuel?
Comments
PC BYC, Holland, MI
I msy have have some time later today. Where is this orange wire, where does it connect? Also you mentioned a upcoming new cool fuel module with regulator. These are new ones coming out? Or are you saying I need to be looking there next.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Is this the kit I need or is there another one with a regulator? PN 861156A03
I have OM6 and Up serial number
https://www.perfprotech.com/new-gm-350-longblock-57l-vortec-for-years-1996-current-models-carb-tbi-mpi-w-crank-position-sensor-2541-s1/product/260508
I have the same engine in my 2004 232BR. Have you replaced the fuel filter ahead of the fuel/water filter. Mine is between the tank and the fuel module and is shown as #27 in link. I have been following this from problem from the beginning and just thought about it today. I don't think many people even know about this pre-filter. Just thought I'd throw it out there.
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31761/8093/80
- (as Al and Drew mentioned) remove reduce electrical components by removing isolator and charging system.
- Add external fuel tank and remove filters (inline/external)
Now comes the troubleshooting, start at the fuel ingress and make sure you have constant fuel pressure. I would have thought, and I haven't tested this, that only vacuum (regulator) or electric issues would cause the pump to reduce pressure when increasing RPM. Someone may be able to confirm...?Remove one battery from charging system and use that as test start battery, ensure the positive and more importantly ground are clean back to engine connections.
Connect orange alternator cable direct to alternator out put and starter connection to positive battery.
Connect hose direct from Gen II module to external tank. Making sure the external tank is clean and no contaminants are present, you don't want to ruin those new injectors.
"Pipe Dream"
2002 Rinker 342 Fiesta Vee
2 x 350 MAG MPI Horizon Petrol
PC BYC, Holland, MI
"Pipe Dream"
2002 Rinker 342 Fiesta Vee
2 x 350 MAG MPI Horizon Petrol
enter your engine S/N
search for fuel pumps
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Did you watch the video i posted? The fuel pressure doesnt drop and stay down it has blips. I ordered some clear fuel line to see if we are getting air into the system. Would air bubbles cause the gauge to drop like that?
An air leak between the gas and the lift pump.
A failure of the lift pump or power to the lift pump.
An obstruction between the lift pump and the high pressure pump.
I am no expert on this particular engine so feel free to call me out on it.
You must be paying attention!
I have also concluded it must be one of these things.
1. Air leak in fuel supply
2. Faulty high pressure pump
3. Restriction on boat side fuel system. (This was formerly checked via 5 gallon fuel cell and determined not at fault. However now I discovered boost pump was faulty I'm rechecking this again.
I have ordered some test gear and will be back after it next weekend. Currently having both transoms rebuilt.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Mercruiser stopped selling the high pressure pump by itself and now it only comes as a kit with the fuel cooler. Why did they do this?? After inquiring I have learned that the cooler was notoriously leaking and people were only replacing the pump. Is it possible that I have a fracture where the fuel is being cooled and at higher pressure I'm ingesting water??? I don't know, but the plugs do have a rusty color to them.
These test will eliminate boat side fuel system, high pressure pump, regulator, fuel cooler and air in the lines. If non of these then I'll probably lose a few more hairs.
I understand the vent line for fuel tank is in the fuel filler. With the cap on tight, how does the line vent?