Ras see the white nylon pieces on the threads rod. That ring fits snug on the end, but before you hammer it you need to kind of work it over the lip on the bellows and to be sure the ridge is in on the bellows, couple of light taps and it will sit in.
I made a plug that fits it pretty well- when I take the part and put it up to the hole, I can't move it in a manner that I don't see rubber- so how could you ever line it up to get it even started? I tried getting an edge started and then tapping the other side. I may have trashed my 2nd part- it still mates with the drive ok but concerned about it leaking. And @Alswagg I get it, believe me. I just think this, especially over the years, could have been a task one gave little thought to. We are getting our 3 o'clock monsoon so I guess I am done. This has been all day. My buddy that lent me the other tools now tells me he has that one but yet to respond if I can come get it.
@rasbury , just binge read 175 new replys on this thread on this cool foggy morning. Hopefully only a couple "episodes" left in the series. Rooting for your successful launch.
My buddy is put of town so I won't get the tool late today....will have him look at the ring to see if I can even still use it. Once that is done in ready for the drive...I am getting there and have tried to take my time and be through...if I do it wrong the boat sinks so it is a biggie for the first time dyi!
How true Ras! I glued 5 sheets of sound silencing drywall (75 pounds per sheet!!!) onto a common wall in our condo this weekend. It wasn't work on a boat - sometimes it's just work! :-)
I never found it had to order another one- something was going on in my neighborhood so the day I got the part, boat had to go. So, able to bring it back today. Once that part is in, I have to torque the hinge pins, out drive on then connect the shift cable- we will see!
Great progress! So, I have my third new ring for the u joint bellows, the tool from my buddy and some spray lubricant....took longer to walk the tools down to the boat then it took to install...pretty much just pressed it in by hand! I spent pretty much a whole day, making tools, chasing down a 2nd ring and then lost it, ordered a 3rd one and bam, right in there.....will be back at it tommorow , getting there!
So pivot pins installed and all torqued to spec, little plastic part in the water tube thanks to some long needle nose pliers...all the old sealant cleaned off the out drive. Thought I would get home earlier, had to deliver an explorer to a good customer in Orlando - for those of you familiar with Orlando I4 going through major transformation, traffic just sucks....
Ok, can anyone tell me what an 05 270 is worth with a clip full of 9mm holes all through it is worth?
So, I attempted to get my out drive back on. I have pictures above somewhere show the stand I built. I raised/lowered the back of the boat to align the holes, got the drive shat through the bearing and on the bolts- just flush with the back side of the out drive and that's as far as I can get it. So, I assume I have not made it through the coupler? If its on the bolts, is it through the coupler? With only an inch or so to go, it has to be through the coupler? Not thinking, I started to turn the prop shaft but it did not occur to me until I came in, its in neutral so that was not doing anything...so, I tried to pull it off and mow its stuck and wont budge....what now?
Well, the thing the shift cable goes into is out slightly, but like I said I was turning the prop shaft, it was turning pretty easy so I assume it was not in gear. So as far as I did have it on, the shaft must have been through the coupler right? @Alswagg , the shifter is in the neutral position, I take you at your word the drive needs to be in gear. So, assuming I get the drive on, the drive is in gear, the shifter is in neutral, so what is the procedure then to hook up the cable on the engine side? And please confirm or tell me I'm wrong, with the out drive sitting on the bolts, the drive shaft has to be through the coupler at that point? If so, don't know why it would have mot slid right on in there?
@Alswagg what do you mean did I align the bearing? Do you mean check the alignment of the bearing with the motor❔ I did check that alignment with the tool above and it seemed to be perfect. The coupler was replaced last summer so assume the engine had been aligned properly. So I had the outdrive on the studs and they were about to come through the housing- at that point, about an inch before completely being on, is not the drive shaft at least part way into the coupler?❓ I was trying to pull it back off so it did not disappear overnight, came off most of the way, off the studs but seems to be stuck somehow...what could hang it up like that? I guess I need to clean up the seals and re do...
Also, on my seal kit, I have two o rings, probably a 3/8 diameter I don't see that I need. I had the 3 for the drive shaft, one for the water tube, gear oil, shift cable. Is this a generic kit and these are extra❔
So, not starting out in gear would cause it not to go together? I know I have several questions on this post....help !
@reneechris14 that's funny, just watched that on you tube...also, I need to attach the shift cable at the engine side as well before I put the drive on, assuming I can get back off! It's jammed up somehow, I was getting pretty frustrated...
Put a big pry bar behind the bellhousing and give the drive and up and down giggle. That cable needs to be connected so the drive will shift in to neutral when pushed on. Make sure the shift thing is all the way out when you install.
@reneechris14 So should I have the cable attached on the engine side or does it matter? I saw the adjustment was 6" from the barrel to where it attaches, was not able to do that without the other end being attached to the bell housing....so I figured I'd do it last...does it matter? Also, any idea on those couple of extra o rings I have?? I had the darn thing on there, just did not want to force it and now I need to take it off so I can re goop the perfect seal I guess after I clean up the stuff I put on last night....dang it!
Yes the cable must be attached. The kit has extra o rings don't know why Lube the o rings on the yoke shaft that is what is stop it from sliding in the rest of the way. The last 2 o rings set in the baring if you look at the shaft, use a tape measure you'll see what I mean.
I lubed it all up real good...will try again in the am...just got to give it a kick I guess...will hook up the engine end of the cable....saw on you tube one being installed...I suppose being in the natural position with the cable, drive being in gear as Al states, it all flows together!
Drive is on- all that is left is to put the trim cylinders back on, shop manual seems to explain those settings /adjustments pretty well. Then, I need to adjust the shift cable- I see on you tube to push the cable in to put in gear, measure 6" from where it mounts to the center of the barrel and that should be it. I still am not optimistic this has solved my issue- might be a couple of other things as the water seemed to be coming in from higher than the bellows and found no damage to the bellows. Still a job that needed to be done- thanks to all for the help and encouragement and I hope this helps someone who decides to tackle it. I will post the final result, should splash this weekend!
Comments
We are all watching this movie rooting for the underdog! Don't leave us in suspense
If it's on the bolts and lined up.
Watch that shift cable.
Put a prop on to give levage if need to turn it.
@reneechris14 So should I have the cable attached on the engine side or does it matter? I saw the adjustment was 6" from the barrel to where it attaches, was not able to do that without the other end being attached to the bell housing....so I figured I'd do it last...does it matter? Also, any idea on those couple of extra o rings I have?? I had the darn thing on there, just did not want to force it and now I need to take it off so I can re goop the perfect seal I guess after I clean up the stuff I put on last night....dang it!
The kit has extra o rings don't know why
Lube the o rings on the yoke shaft that is what is stop it from sliding in the rest of the way.
The last 2 o rings set in the baring if you look at the shaft, use a tape measure you'll see what I mean.
I did 50 miles today it was a great day.