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Comments
hopefully @Alswagg will bring me home.
Issues:
1. When I put the tilt rams back on , in the front, the spacer I put to the rear to hopefully pull the drive down lower- might be to low as I looks like the drive could bounce around and hit the bottom of the trim manifold or what ever you call it so looks like I need to move that to the rear to pull the drive out a bit, no big issue there but if someone can confirm that, that would be great.
2. I did not quite know how the hose for the reservoir to the out drive came apart, I just knew I did not want to break the fittings so I cut it. Unfortunately I did not keep all the pieces to know exactly how long that hose should be. Looks like either I used the wrong hose ( got it from a marine supply co ) or it's just to long. When you raise, it has put a kink in the hose.....so either I need to cut it and put a coupler in it to fix it better another day, or the drive has to come off. The true answer is really dependent on the next problem.
3. Another thread I started was on the trim sensors. I had the drive down when I pulled it off, the indicator showed in the down position as far as I know. The gauge has always worked fine. When I started to look at these sensors, I noticed that the gauge was pegged full up. So, putting back together, I aligned the marks on the limit per the manual and installed. On the position sensor, I really could not see the marks to align. So, I just sort of stuck it on there to play around with it. First, I would say that when I first re assembled, There were indents where the screws were tight on the sensors and it pretty much just popped right on there. I figured it might not be 100% but it would be close. Al pointed out that the pivot pins had been removed so it would not go into the same position. So, I turn the ignition on and raise the outdrive, with the limit switch clockwise to the max so the drive should not extend- went all the way up so obviously not reading the limit switch. I turn the position by hand and it does nothing to the gauge. I also notice, the covering has come off the wires to the position switch- I have no clue how these sensors work other than port is limit and starboard is position. Could those bare wires have grounded something out? I don't see any circuits popped but neither of them appear to be working.....
and its set for years
and senders are part of it
you could
of been boating all season for about 1200
time is worth much more
OK Well, I think it is time to close this one out. The bellows replacement I'd say was a success- have not put it in the water yet but do not anticipate a problem nor do I anticipate this was my problem. One thing I did not do that I'm now going to do is replace the water tube- it looked ok and I guess I got in a bit of a hurry and decided not to. Since I have to pull the housing back off to fix the hose, might as well take that as a sign and do it. My leak is either a transom seal leak (but I don't think so) a steering pin leak, where the trim wires go through, or something up with the water tube itself and lastly, where the speed odometer hose comes through. I got up in the boat last night before I toted it off to storage as my trim sending units are not working and thought perhaps I messed up the wires on the inside of the transom fishing the lower shift cable through with my bayonet I was using to push it around (don't say it, already thought of it) but it was not. Don't understand as it worked fine before I took them off, trim works, gauge is pegged all the way up, so you can guess what my new thread will be- trouble shooting the trim sensors!
This job was really not that bad, took me for ever but between work, parts, life etc., I really had a hard time pulling time out to work on it. If I had everything sitting in front of me and all the right tools, I think I could do this in a weekend now.
Couple of things that really got me stuck-
1. when you replace the shift cable, be sure to remove the heat shield material that is at the very bottom of the cable on the inside of the transom by the exhaust- what a mess you will have otherwise trying to get that out.
2.Aligning the bearing- When I was having trouble getting the out drive back on, I had the tool to check the engine alignment with the bearing and thought I had checked it properly. This is still a mystery to me a bit- what comes first chicken or the egg. So, my coupler had been replaced a year ago July so I assumed the engine was in alignment with the bearing. After all, the out drive was installed. So, when I put the new bearing in, I assumed everything was still aligned properly, I put the alignment took in there and it did feed into the coupler but did not realize it did no go in all the way. I whined a bit on the forum and Al asked if I aligned the bearing and my reply was, how do you do that? I did not hear back so motored along. My buddy I borrowed the tools from, I broke down and called him after I had removed the outdrive and realized it was indeed not in "perfect" alignment. So, he takes the tool...taps it in there a bit, spins it around a few times, keeps working it like that and states: Bearing is aligned. Would have never thought to do that in a million years. Guess I was puzzled that I would have thought you would align the motor to the bearing and not the other way around. I guess if he could not accomplished what he did, it would then required adjusting the motor some. He also put some grease on the tool so you could see the grooves on the coupler and know how well it was centered. It was not perfect but he said about as good as it gets. Also, now understanding why the coupler connection is surrounded by rubber and that is to absorb the vibration from a never perfect alignment of the coupler, bearing and out drive. He slipped the drive back on in two seconds.
3. Only other thing that got me was the darn hose for the gear oil- mentioned I cut it to get it apart as I could not see how it came undone- there is not a merc part for that, it's just a transmission hose and I did not hang onto the old hose to measure it- made it to long and when the drive went up, it now has a kink.
So, ordering a new seal kit, the U joint bellows ring, probably new trim rings.
I did see last night that it looks like wheree the tube for the speedometer comes through, it is broken off- looked like a little nylon piece there it connected to from the inside of the transom- hose was broken off with a piece of nylon inside so assume that is where it came from, is that a possible leak source? Don't know if that happened when the motor was put back in or if I did it messing with the lower shift cable...I will put it back in the water at the ramp to see if I can identify the leaking better knowing what I know now...figured labor day weekend was not the best day to tie up the ramp while I was messing with the boat, and now Irma came to visit.
My truck has a check engine light on it, seems to be running ok but I was concerned about trying to pull that beast out of the water if I had any loss of power. So, I get to the ramp and kind of test it a couple of times...backing down and then pulling up to align the trailer better and seemed to be ok- so down in the water we went. I had left the hatch open for inspection, jumped down there and water is just a coming in- faster rate than it was before. I was concerned about the amount of water coming in, the pulling ability of the truck with a stern that was filling with water so I yanked it out, good thing I did. When I got back up on flat and stopped and we went to leave the truck was in fail safe mode and would not move. Turned if off and back on and was able to leave so dropped the boat at storage and took the truck to get it looked at. So......I was in a pretty big hurry to get the boat out I did not have much chance to look. It for sure does not appear to be the steering pin as the water is coming in lower. I thought it might be the speedometer so I plugged that off from the out drive side so I guess it is not that. I did not replace the water pick up tube as it seemed to look fine but it does seem to be coming from that area. There is a web or structural piece of the transom assy right under neath where that tube comes in and the water was hitting there but I put my hand under where the tube comes through the transom where it connects and I do not feel water. I did not start the motor. It is for sure coming in higher than the bellows...any ideas guys? I will get my truck back to going and have a buddy go down with me- what a day of disappointment for sure...and by the way I did not replace that water tube- was that a big mistake? I know the answer and should have but could it be the source of my problem?
Go Steelers!!!
you need experience to do drive jobs period.
i know a lot of crap and can do everything on the boat. When it comes to rubber I always leave it for marine shops.
300 so far plus your time wasted.
normal rate is a 1000
per drive that’s if you even needed the repair in the first place.