engine alignment

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Comments

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2018
    As far as thoughts go that I don't understand and maybe I already addressed it..this alignment is pretty precise right? So I consider the centerline of both the bearing and the coupler...so the left and right is controlled by the rear mounts but hardly accurate I'd think. Then, for the up and down, you have the rear engine mount with apparently all sorts of configurations of the rear bolts that will affect the centerline of the coupler and bearing relationship. So, I would think the centerline of the bearing and the centerline of the front of the coupler have to be spot on- the adjustment of the front mounts are only aligning the rest of the spline surface straight with that centerline. So if the motor is off say 1/16 of an inch up or down either way you would never get it done! Amazing...I know you align the bearing some but how much can you compensate?
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    No way! I guess if you have the right jigs and fixtures while the boat is built- once you tare it down how would you ever get that back?
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Oh, I get the two would be ALOT easier...getting a good workout. Happy thanksgiving Al and tanks for the help, to all!
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    so...amazing result with a couple of hours of work...if that...so I came home and lifted the motor to get the fiber and ss washer out.....dropped one of the dam things and could not find it so ran down to the marina to get a couple of more..it gets dark so early, around 6 so not a lot of daylight to work with.....tried to glue with super glue which did not seem to hold....at any rate, got the bolts back through, engine back down and everything good. As would be expected, the motor was out of alignment. So, I came up with cutting off a broom handle that is exactly 1"- I think it must me a drawn tubing so it is very round....anyway, that will go into the inerds of the coupler and you can then see the relationship of the coupler to the bearing- so I adjusted the motor quickly until it was close and then dialed it in from there. By the time it got dark, the tool was slipping in pretty good but I will fine tune that tomorrow and proceed on. It's amazing that 105" washer would make that much difference but I'm back to a proper thread length to put the front engine bolts and washer back on......3 weekends later.
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,663 mod
    Ras, that is great to hear that yoy are al almost there!!! I wish you the best of luck to finish up tomorrow!

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,045 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Great news, I feel like we should all be there when you launch her! LoL!!
    2008 330EC
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes I feel like we all part this adventure. It's like a relaunch good luck may your bilge be dry.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Member Posts: 1,582 ✭✭✭✭
    Great job .hope the shake down cruse is uneventful 
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I feel I should send you the fuzzy to break across the bow.  Private label... "Rasbury's Pride".   Youve earned it... and have become a solid Marine mechanic in the meantime. 
  • WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,208 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Hoping the rest goes easy @rasbury. If nothing else, you've certainly showed your sense of perseverance.
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
    2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Well, or maybe how cheap I am...I  think the admiral sometimes wants me out there working on it to keep me busy...idle hands you know....anyway, ran into a little situation hooking up the trim hoses...I replaced both of them as I toasted them with a torch trying to get the Y pipe out...anyway, I replaced them my serial number but they don't match up to the pump....the one end does not look like anything could ever go on it to work...looks like the end that went into the manifold.....how'd I screw this up?
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,045 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2018
    I'm not 100% sure if this is correct but it looks like the quick disconnect hose will hook up to the pump connection on the left and you need to remove the quick disconnect on the pump and screw the hose into it.
    2008 330EC
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,045 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Or just remove the quick disconnect fittings all together and screw the hoses into the pump?
    2008 330EC
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You know, I think your right.....I bought the hoses off eBay after looking up the p/n's on the merc site. I was reading last night you can buy quick connect fittings for older hoses for newer pump styles. So I'm guessing I got an older version of the hose. Dang eBay! I will see if in can do that on the one hose...not like you take them off often anyway...
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Member Posts: 1,582 ✭✭✭✭
    Looks like you’ll have to change the fittings on the pump looks 
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,045 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yea, strange that they have quick disconnects. It’s not like you remove the pump all the time.
    2008 330EC
  • zaverin1zaverin1 Member Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭
    You can always get new fittings on the pump 
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'm going to see if I can remove the quick connect and just put the hose on...
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    i think folks have quick connects back there simply because of the difficulty getting to them in most situations... they're usually planted against the transom in one corner or another and simply getting to them in a lot of cases is a feat.  

    however, they can become even more problematic if those dang things seize, and they usually seize do to debris and corrosion- which makes them a LOT worse than turning a nut back there.  

    also, w/ quick connects, you can swap pumps in an emergency situation and pull the drive up or drop it down, without losing a lot of juice in the process.  this 'could' be a godsend on the ramp and protecting your outdrive. 
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Well, I have no choice...I thought when I pulled the fitting out of the pump the line would screw in. It does not, checked local marina and they did not have one so will have to order it. I'm surprised I threw the only line away, I usually hang on to stuff well after the job is complete for that reason....could have taken it off maybe...anyway, got it all put back together and fired it right up! Whoo hoo! On problem, and I don't even know what part it is.....is leaking and looks like a fitting or sensor was in there....It is back by the steering, the plug to the left is the main engine harness plug....is it a steering cooler?? Looks like something was there and it was gooped up good to seal it, it was that way when I got the boat. When I was pushing the motor up the drive might have hit it,,,,,there is nothing hanging and I don't see a part in my garage or anything.....what is it? I think on the other side of it there is a sensor, maybe this was just a plug?>
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It looks like, and cant confirm unless you back the camera out where can see location, a bung for a temp sensor for incoming water temp.  The only other thing it could be of that hose connecting is what I think it is, is cooling water for something else... Perhaps a feed for a fluid to fluid oil cooler?  Most likely just a temp sensor bung, though. 
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2018
    Well, went back and looked again- I think I knocked it pushing the engine up my drive way...it was not hangine before but when I cranked it up, the pressure must have blew it out and it is a sensor....looks like it was "waxed" in with some sort of sealant? I assume it must not have threads or someone would have not done this....I assume as I found in the power steering system some sort of cooler for that? That sensor might just be hanging a while and the hole plugged up...good amount of water was shooting out for sure. I can't tear this thing down again right now! Thoughts?
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    water presser sensor but the 3 inch piece looks like a add on from the original mine sits right on the power steering cooler.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think a radiator shop could braze that fitting on 
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yea, that's what I was thinking about the add on piece...and it looks like jb weld was drizzled on to hold in place. I do not understand why a cooler is necessary - does a car have one? I did not look at what goes through it...was not prepared to learn about yet something else at this point!
  • pistolepistole Member Posts: 158 ✭✭
    learned something new today ! Could not imagine the oil in the power steering needed cooling
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2018
    Me too unfortunately. So, reading up on this a bit and there are many discussions whether it is needed or not and on which boats. Once that oil gets over 300, pump failure will happen. So, I'm not going to argue either way if is needed or not. I'm going to question if it needs the sensor. I would assume if there is a water leak, the sensor would not work anyway...it is shooting water out of the hole the sensor goes in. I saw the jerry-rig done on the sensor when I pulled the motor. This project being pretty overwhelming I went with if it ain't broke...maybe @alswagg is still keeping an eye on me. Can't imagine how the thread would have been messed up in the first place much less the fix for it...will get the sensor unplugged and figure out what the heck happened. If you see this Al I have some pictures further up the thread of what the PO did ! And how was the sensor even working like this?
    Post edited by rasbury on
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,593 ✭✭✭✭✭
    if i can easily get to it, i have a used one if you want it. 
    yeah, you'll hear the pump whine and start to jerk when it gets hot... there is a ferry route through the shallows that is well marked- and making the run through there at speed is fun.... after running through and back, i can often hear and feel the power steering pump and know it's hot... water-to-water coolers are extremely efficient, though, and it only takes a few minutes to cool it down.  I can't imagine why one would be 'required' on a big cruiser that doesn't get pushed to 'performance', though, when the 'issue' could be resolved almost as easily by adding larger reservoir... 

    this accounts for actually using the steering, but i guess it shouldn't neglect the fact the steering ram encounters 'work' even in a straight line with stabilizing steering that user input doesn't really feel.  i guess it could warm up pretty good in that condition too.... 
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks 212....I don't know yet if its the thread on the cooler or the sensor...need to pull it off and look. I'm thinking of just plugging it up- I'm guessing the cooler is doing what it is supposed to but no way the sensor has been working like this, that's for sure......I am going to try and get up there tonight and pull it off for a look see. Dand PO!
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Pulled the sensor, what a mess! :The bottom is tubing so I suppose water still made it up to the sensor..thinking I can drill it out, re tap and put a connector there that will thread in and accept the sensor, would the shavings from drilling blow out ok or cause another problem? I really don't want to dig into this....
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