Full outdrive service including a new gimbal ring, bellows, and shift cable being done next month. Having a few port lights rebedded as one of them is leaking.
I was going to have the factory swim platform removed as I think it's causing performance issues. It's mounted far, far lower than an aftermarket platform would be and it ploughs even while on plane. Check out this comparison:
I decided to wait till next year to do this as I'm already going to be in it for $3k probably for the outdrive
Here is a customer boat he purchased it like this last summer from a couple that got out of boating in a hurry. yikes! i will do my best to post updated pics
On a opposite side i changed all my plugs and they were all showing normal wear and could of went few more seasons lol also inatalled my new block drains.
I don't think so, only when they are newly installed. After a while the heat makes them sag. When the engine is running the exhaust keeps them open, they will only close when/if there is a rush of water up the exhaust pipes.
All kinds of stuff this year. Port swivel pin and seal. New port gimbal ring. Bellows, gimbal bearing and shift cable on port and stbd. I think I only got 3 seasons on my last pair and the port ujoint and shift bellow were leaking. Replaced leaking upper drive seal on stbd. Bottom painted boat, and painted drives. Replaced rear trim ram shaft on stbd. Somehow the furthest stbd ram came off and bent the threaded portion of the shaft. Strange that the locknut backed off... Zincs. Cleaned and Waxed boat. New rear 3 panels if camper canvas. Fuel filters.
In water to dos are: Port manifolds and risers. Port Hardin water pump.
Well, still very wintry here, so appropriate that this thread pops up again I guess. So far this winter between me and my mechanic: Full drive service including seals, bellows, shift cable, sanded, primed, painted, new magnesium anodes, replaced Mercathode anode and controller/wires. Repaired a torn screen on rear canvas. Cleaned up batteries and charged up. Still to do, but need better weather: re-seal rub rail and port lights, wax hull, clean and treat canvas, install new anchor rode and chain, install new stereo/amp/LED speakers. Change out all cabin and cockpit lights to LED bulbs. Maybe tackle cabin floor and install vinyl. That one might be later in the year.
Willhound what do you mean by reseal rub rail The PO of my boat went around the boat rub rail with silicone caulking it looks terrible Im starting to remove it but its going to take a lot of time and patience. I can't see any reason why he did it
Willhound what do you mean by reseal rub rail The PO of my boat went around the boat rub rail with silicone caulking it looks terrible
Yeah, the only way to do it is remove the rail, remove every screw, replace with new screws and apply sealer when you install each screw. Caulking the outside will never work.
Oh, and about 25% of the screws will break off, so you have to use vise-grips to remove the broken part.
Iv never heard of a rub rail leaking I don't know why he went all the way around the boat
It's actually not unusual for rub rails to leak. Expect yours to leak once you take the sealant off. The proper way to seal is as LaRea mentioned. Very tedious task, but many on here have done it and can give tips.
Yeah, rub rail leaks are common, but hard to diagnose. Water gets in, but the owner never figures out where it's coming from, so the rub rail escapes blame.
What would be the evidence of a rub rail leak? Mysterious bilge water or do you notice it in the walls and floor? I’ve got zero evidence but now I’m curious. Sounds like it’s sealing the screws that’s is key, not the stainless rail itself?
All of the above. To be honest, when I fixed mine, I didn't know for sure it was the rail. It was process of elimination.
In theory, you can put soap water on the rails, and use a leaf blower to pressurize the cabin while looking for bubbles. In theory, it should work, but I've never known anyone who tried it.
But if you do the rails, you have to commit. You can't "sorta" re-seal the rails. In for a penny, in for a pound.
Comments
I was going to have the factory swim platform removed as I think it's causing performance issues. It's mounted far, far lower than an aftermarket platform would be and it ploughs even while on plane. Check out this comparison:
I decided to wait till next year to do this as I'm already going to be in it for $3k probably for the outdrive
he purchased it like this last summer from a couple that got out of boating in a hurry.
yikes!
i will do my best to post updated pics
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
when money stops
i stop
but yes I am not surprised that people still buy boats like that
this is a 280 rinker identical to mine
i changed all my plugs and they were all showing normal wear and could of went few more seasons lol
also inatalled my new block drains.
Port swivel pin and seal.
New port gimbal ring.
Bellows, gimbal bearing and shift cable on port and stbd. I think I only got 3 seasons on my last pair and the port ujoint and shift bellow were leaking.
Replaced leaking upper drive seal on stbd.
Bottom painted boat, and painted drives.
Replaced rear trim ram shaft on stbd. Somehow the furthest stbd ram came off and bent the threaded portion of the shaft. Strange that the locknut backed off...
Zincs.
Cleaned and Waxed boat.
New rear 3 panels if camper canvas.
Fuel filters.
In water to dos are:
Port manifolds and risers.
Port Hardin water pump.
Hope to be floating in 4 days.
So far this winter between me and my mechanic:
Full drive service including seals, bellows, shift cable, sanded, primed, painted, new magnesium anodes, replaced Mercathode anode and controller/wires. Repaired a torn screen on rear canvas. Cleaned up batteries and charged up.
Still to do, but need better weather: re-seal rub rail and port lights, wax hull, clean and treat canvas, install new anchor rode and chain, install new stereo/amp/LED speakers. Change out all cabin and cockpit lights to LED bulbs. Maybe tackle cabin floor and install vinyl. That one might be later in the year.
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
06 Rinker 270
to add
always run a gap between drives and paint
same for tabs
Oh, and about 25% of the screws will break off, so you have to use vise-grips to remove the broken part.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
My 342 leaked bad until I re-did the rails.
In theory, you can put soap water on the rails, and use a leaf blower to pressurize the cabin while looking for bubbles. In theory, it should work, but I've never known anyone who tried it.
But if you do the rails, you have to commit. You can't "sorta" re-seal the rails. In for a penny, in for a pound.