Best Of
Re: Meet the new La Rea!
Isn't it always that way?! I feel like it's quite rare the "that was easy" project happens to be easy.LaRea said:Latest project:
...
It was much harder than I expected...
Years ago, I started a personal rule: take what you think it will cost, and how much time it will take, then DOUBLE the cost and TRIPLE the time...and yet I'm still underestimating my cost/time occasionally.
Anyway, this flag just went up in my shop a while ago...it hits so hard!
https://www.amazon.com/BECAUSE-Outdoor-Motivational-Inspirational-Banner/dp/B0BV9SYYFH?th=1
Formulaben
5 ·
Re: Meet the new La Rea!
Have I ever written here about how much I absolutely LOVE using DIN rail for electronics projects? If you're ever doing custom wiring and you have physical space for DIN rail, it simplifies everything. I used it when I rebuilt the controller for the swim platform, and again for this project. Rugged, cheap, and so easy for troubleshooting. The controller itself was $70, and all other parts including enclosure, maybe an extra $50.
LaRea
1 ·
Re: Meet the new La Rea!
Latest project: Upgrading to a wifi-controlled dimmer system for the salon, galley and cockpit. It was much harder than I expected, but you guys know I like a challenge.
I replaced 17 light fixtures a couple years ago, but those lights are not dimmable (which is why they were so cheap). Those are going to the landfill. Nobody on the planet makes a dimmable puck light that fits the cutouts on my boat, so I had to get creative.
For each cutout, I had to install a spacer to reduce the diameter. The solution: buy PVC pipe caps from Home Depot, and drill out the middle with a hole saw. That insert gets screwed into the cutout, then the fixture pops right into the insert.
Here's a shot of the "fabrication facility" where I made the biggest mess. BTW that black work pad on the table was also the landing zone for the cutting board that melted on the cooktop yesterday!
I replaced 17 light fixtures a couple years ago, but those lights are not dimmable (which is why they were so cheap). Those are going to the landfill. Nobody on the planet makes a dimmable puck light that fits the cutouts on my boat, so I had to get creative.
For each cutout, I had to install a spacer to reduce the diameter. The solution: buy PVC pipe caps from Home Depot, and drill out the middle with a hole saw. That insert gets screwed into the cutout, then the fixture pops right into the insert.
Here's a shot of the "fabrication facility" where I made the biggest mess. BTW that black work pad on the table was also the landing zone for the cutting board that melted on the cooktop yesterday!
LaRea
2 ·
Re: Meet the new La Rea!
@grouch0jr - I'm relying on watertight enclosures for corrosion control. I don't know if they will last for the lifetime of the boat, but they should last a long time.
Originally, the swim platform pump had a plastic enclosure for the controller, but it wasn't protected from being stepped on. Eventually, after too many careless footsteps, the enclosure broke open and salt air basically wrecked it. I added a custom box to protect the pump and controller from foot traffic. Then I used DIN components to rebuild the controller.
Originally, the swim platform pump had a plastic enclosure for the controller, but it wasn't protected from being stepped on. Eventually, after too many careless footsteps, the enclosure broke open and salt air basically wrecked it. I added a custom box to protect the pump and controller from foot traffic. Then I used DIN components to rebuild the controller.
LaRea
1 ·
Re: What did you do to your boat today
Sanded off all of the old bottom paint. Going back with Seahawk tuff stuff barrier coat and then topping off with Seahawk Cokote . Will be nice to have a fresh start
earl1z19
2 ·
Re: What did you do to your boat today
Well, I finally got around to rebuilding my spare Hardin seawater pump today. Great winter project. Thanks @LaRea it worked great! I did have a little difficulty putting the new seal back in (luckily I ordered a spare kit for the next time) and crushed after finally figuring out the old outer ring of the old bearings was still in there (looked like it should be there). Already ordered another seal to have a full spate kit.
Dream_Inn
4 ·
Re: Trim battery connections
If the battery is dead then I guess I would FIRST be addressing what is draining it...if it is wired correctly, then with the BATT SWITCH to OFF then the only hot items on it are 1) trim, 2) bilge pump(s), and 3) *maybe* stereo memory. YMMV, some put VHF radio on hot bus, etc.rasbury said:What if that battery is dead, I have to move them to the house battery @Formulaben ?
What exactly do you mean by this? Generator (GENSET) "hot" as in battery charger, or engine alternator, or ? This statement is highly ambiguous, so please let us know...rasbury said:Right now I have the gen hot on the house as I use 1 most of the time.
FWIW, I would absolutely wire any charging solution to charge the battery banks separately.
No, unless the batteries are paralleled, in which case it's pointless to have a 1/2/OFF switch.rasbury said:If i put the trim hot on 1 and the neg on 2, does that pull from both?
For the purpose of this conversation, here is how I rewired my 270:
- Battery isolator: remove it, remove/tie off the cables at both ends (isolator and at BATT MASTER SWITCH) and then throw it away, it's trash.
- Main (house) battery bank: two (2) large deep cycle batteries paralleled together for all house loads and main engine start, wired via the BATT MASTER SWITCH.
- Other small start battery: wired through BATT MASTER SWITCH to GENSET starter ONLY.
- BATTERY CHARGER: upgraded to 50amp marine 2-bank charger so each bank gets charged separately and with plenty of power for normal use; wired DIRECTLY to each bank.
- BATT MASTER SWITCH: ON, OFF, and COMBINE. Combine is the only time battery 1 gets used besides GENSET starting; really only used in an emergency, as a low house bank would be jumped with the jump pack for main engine starting if necessary; prior to this, the GENSET would be turned on and the battery charger turned on! ALL DC electrical loads go through this switch except bilge pumps, which are on separate circuit breaker switches (so that I can turn them off if necessary.) When I turn the BATT MASTER SWITCH to OFF there is ZERO power leakage possible except for bilge pumps if the float switch turns them on.
All of this, and I mean ALL OF THIS is a result of the trash battery isolator that came with the boat causing discharging issues. IMHO it is trash, get rid of it and use a modern ACR to charge the other battery bank, but only if you're not ever running your GENSET to charge the batteries; then an ACR from the main bank (BATT 2?) to the other bank (BATT 1?) will charge it but will NOT allow it to somehow discharge or try to supplement the main bank. Also, given the electrical loads possible on this boat, the main house bank *MUST* have 2 large deep cycle batteries, IMHO.
Formulaben
1 ·
Re: Merry Christmas
Got this shirt from my daughter for Christmas. Thought it was appropriate for a lot of you guys.
Spyderweb
5 ·
Re: New Amplifier
I got the new amplifier installed today. Power cables are terminated at the house batteries and everything works as expected. I just have to tidy up with some cable management and this project will be complete.
grouch0jr
6 ·