Rinker 330/340 2008+ Random Topics

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

@YYZRC , my mid bilge was the same. I used a shop vac and vacuumed out the water the bilge pump couldn’t get. I don’t know why they have it mounted so high, it seems like it should be mounted lower to pick up more water. The previous owner of my boat had an auto pump installed, it doesn’t have a float, it checks for water every few seconds. Once it senses water it pumps it overboard. I don’t know if it’s supposed to but mine doesn’t turn on with the manual switch, does yours?

Totally agreed on the placement.  Only answer I can come up with is access; it's a nasty reach all the way to the back.  Where would I find the manual switch for it?  I didn't even think to look for one.

YYZRC

I measured the swim ladder plugs, they're 1.375" inside diameter and 1.5" outside diameter.  Will try ordering some random ones and will report back if any work.

aero3113

The switch is up on your dash.

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

The switch is up on your dash.

Will check next time; I think that one only runs the bilge pump in the engine bay.

aero3113

Ok, that’s how mine is set up also. I think on my 242 the switch worked both.

reneechris14

@aero3113 Yes brown w/orange tracer goes to the switch( think i would hook it up so you can test it)
@YYZRC looks like they might of had a water filter mounted there.
My mid bilge had over ten gallons when I bought my boat. The mid bilge pump was not working figered this out on our 105 mile ride home from NY NY.

aero3113

@reneechris14 , since it’s an auto pump and checks for water every 2.5 minutes I’m not sure if it’s supposed to be hooked up to the switch, what do you think?

Dream_Inn

I've always seen the mid pump connected to switch.  There should be power there from the switch, and yes use the brown wire.  

It is definitely a great time of year to get those odd chores on the boat done.  My vacuflush for some reason did8keep vacuum this year.  I replaced all 4 duck Bill's and everything in head.  It looks like I need to replace pump piston and its seals this winter.

reneechris14

@aero3113 as part of my pretrip I flip the switch to here them buzz and I also flip up the float to hear the buzz. My mid blige has not had water in it since I cleaned it out(maybe a splash from winterizing). I don't see a float to test the pump so I suggested wiring it to a switch. There is also two brown wires from the unit one has a tag connect???

reneechris14

down loaded owners manual off defender 

aero3113

Yes, looks like brown/white has a tag and there is a solid brown. So, it looks like I should connect the brown/orange from the switch to the brown/white on the pump, correct?

dalek

YYZRC said:

I got the quote for the bow thruster install. $18,000 CDN for parts, labor and sales tax!   

I think I will do the wiring myself, which will cut the labor hours in half.  This brings me to my question.  Why can't/shouldn't I use the same battery for the bow thruster and the generator?  It's not that doing so will save a ton of money, but rather the thought of another dedicated battery seems illogical to me.

Maybe a stupid idea, but why can you not put one of those lithium jump starter type power packs close to the thruster? The duty cycle of a 3Kw thruster is only a few minutes. There are plenty of 2000Amp packs about. The weight saving on the battery and cabling would be considerable.

aero3113

Update on my mid bilge pump wiring. I looked at it yesterday and there was a brown/white wire from the pump that wasn’t hooked up to anything also. I connected that to the brown/orange wire from the switch, it should now pump when I turn the switch on. I know the previous owner didn’t do any of his own work, and he praised his mechanics. If he only knew the corners that were cut on a lot of items I have found.

rasbury

You know, I think I have figured out over the years, the percentage of people that really Excell in their jobs with both knowledge and most important, pride in their work is pretty small. Does not mean they are not likeable and good people, just sloppy.

aero3113

@rasbury , I agree with your comment.

LaRea

YYZRC said:

...  Why can't/shouldn't I use the same battery for the bow thruster and the generator?  It's not that doing so will save a ton of money, but rather the thought of another dedicated battery seems illogical to me.

You could, but it's a lot of current.  You'd probably spend $600+ just on cable, connectors and circuit protection.  And I wouldn't want the risk that my thruster could drain the genny battery.  

YYZRC

LaRea said:

You could, but it's a lot of current.  You'd probably spend $600+ just on cable, connectors and circuit protection.  And I wouldn't want the risk that my thruster could drain the genny battery.  

Not sure if it's true, but the marina says ABYC standards dictate no battery under sleeping quarters.  I'm fine with spending the money on the cable to do it right, I just have to figure out how to wire it up safely.

Dream_Inn

YYZRC said:

LaRea said:

You could, but it's a lot of current.  You'd probably spend $600+ just on cable, connectors and circuit protection.  And I wouldn't want the risk that my thruster could drain the genny battery.  

Not sure if it's true, but the marina says ABYC standards dictate no battery under sleeping quarters.  I'm fine with spending the money on the cable to do it right, I just have to figure out how to wire it up safely.

Actually, it has to be a sealed battery, so there is no out-gassing.  Many boats are ABYC compliant with the proper batteries in sleeping quarters.

YYZRC

I'm about to order all new canvas from Ameritex.  Has anyone replaced the whole gamut on a 330?  Just want to make sure I'm ordering everything and Ameritex hasn't been particularly helpful...

108783046- S-RK 330 CONN CPTNVY-$770.00 (Connector)

108784046- S-RK 330 SIDE CRTN CPTNVY-$623.03 (Side Curtains)

108782046- S-RK 330 FT HT CONN CPTNVY-$260.59 (Front Hardtop Connection)

108780046- S-RK 330 CMPR TOP CPTNVY-$868.60 (Camper Top)

108787046- S-RK 330 CMPR AFT CRTN CPTNVY-$1,146.48 (Camper Aft Curtain)

108781046- S-RK 330 CMPR ARCH CONN CPTNVY-$156.25 (Camper Arch Connection)

108786046- S-RK 330 CMPR SIDE CRTN CPTNVY- $452.63 (Camper Side Curtains)

aero3113

@YYZRC , it looks like you have everything listed. Is your canvas that bad that it can’t be repaired? All of the windows and zippers can easily be taken off and replaced by a canvas shop. Would save you a ton of money!

YYZRC

My canvas is completely trashed and not worth repairing.  Also, the forward connector pieces have been replaced at some point and the canvas is the wrong color. 

I also really like having new canvas - I replaced the canvas on my Four Winns and it made the boat feel and look like new.  Darren is quoting about $4000 for the whole shebang shipped.  I'm not sure I could do better at a canvas shop, especially when factoring in the hassle.  This way I just zip on the new canvas and add snaps.  Rinker is especially easy because the camper canvas is secured with those ugly/annoying elasticized straps - way fewer snaps to install!

YYZRC

I'm also going to have a new transom bench seat cushion made up.  Has anyone deviated from the white vinyl?  I was considering doing it in dark blue (to match the canvas) with white piping.

YYZRC

@Aero, have you considered adding cleats to the stern fairings below the gas filler caps, as the newer models have?

aero3113

I haven’t, you don’t think the cleats just forward of the gas fills and the pop-ups on the platform will be good enough?

Spyderweb

@YYZRC, if you're referring to the seat on the swim platform, my 330 has a black cushion to complement the black hull and canvas.  If you get blue canvas, I think a blue cushion would look great.

aero3113

YYZRC said:

I'm also going to have a new transom bench seat cushion made up.  Has anyone deviated from the white vinyl?  I was considering doing it in dark blue (to match the canvas) with white piping.

I think my cushion will last a couple more seasons. When I do replace it I was thinking EVA foam?

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

I haven’t, you don’t think the cleats just forward of the gas fills and the pop-ups on the platform will be good enough?

I was planning to use the cleat forward of the gas fill for a fender; I guess it can do double duty!  I also have a couple of these fender locks that I never installed on my Four Winns; maybe I'll install them on the Rinker.

https://www.amazon.ca/Taco-Metals-Marine-Stainless-Release/dp/B00S80R4JY



I thought the lower cleat would be awesome for a stern anchor at the beach.  I will have some sort of dinghy brackets so the pop ups won't be ideal.

YYZRC

Spyderweb said:

@YYZRC, if you're referring to the seat on the swim platform, my 330 has a black cushion to complement the black hull and canvas.  If you get blue canvas, I think a blue cushion would look great.

That looks great!!  You've solidified my decision to go with a blue seat!  Thank you Spyder!

@Aero, I did EVA foam on my Four Winns and while it looked great, I really like the idea of having a comfortable seat at the transom.

YYZRC

I've been pondering how to mount my BBQ and I've decided that I'm going to fashion a mount that utilizes (or replaces) the vertical grab handle on the starboard side of the transom.  Are the bolts that hold this handle in place accessible when the engine hatch is open?

Thanks!

Spyderweb

@YYZRC if you're referring to the vertical handle as in the above picture where I have a black line attached to it, coming from the swim platform cleat, that vertical grab handle is accessible when you open the stern hatch.  I had both the vertical handles off last year to rebed the handles.  Easy access.