Rinker 330/340 2008+ Random Topics

PickleRick

YYZRC said:

I got the quote for the bow thruster install. $18,000 CDN for parts, labor and sales tax!   

I think I will do the wiring myself, which will cut the labor hours in half.  This brings me to my question.  Why can't/shouldn't I use the same battery for the bow thruster and the generator?  It's not that doing so will save a ton of money, but rather the thought of another dedicated battery seems illogical to me.

I think the issue is amps,  you'll have to run some serious gauge wires on a 30 plus ft boat to power that thruster.  Same rules that apply to the winlass.  Do you have a house battery bank mounted mid cabin or closer to the bow than the engine bay?  

Under the v berth is ideal.

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

I have a couple of small spots that are starting to bubble/crack, but nothing that bad. It looks like it’s filler that disbonded?

Thats what it looks like to me too.  There's a spot on the outside of the arch that is delaminating as well.  No impact damage so I can only assume water penetration/freezing.

Rinker wants about $12k plus shipping for a hardtop to replace it 

YYZRC

PickleRick said:

I think the issue is amps,  you'll have to run some serious gauge wires on a 30 plus ft boat to power that thruster.  Same rules that apply to the winlass.  Do you have a house battery bank mounted mid cabin or closer to the bow than the engine bay?  

Under the v berth is ideal.

All batteries are in the engine compartment.  I don't mind running the heavy stuff (I think the marina was quoting 4 gauge), I am just annoyed at the idea of another battery charger and battery.

PickleRick

Your windlass will most likely be pulling more amps and be pulling them longer than your bow thruster, so long as you are running big enough wire you should be fine.

I'd still call the tech department of the thruster manufacturer and make 100% sure.

YYZRC

I pulled the old Raymarine head unit out today.  Planning to fill the hole and add a bracket for an iPad.  Any recommendations on how to gel over the area and get it relatively smooth and a close color match to the original?



Sorry, not sure why my phone insists on posting every pic upside down!

aero3113

Maybe use the existing holes to screw in a piece of marine plywood behind with 3M 5200. Use fiberglass filler, let it cure, remove the screws then gel coat it, sand and polish. I don’t know if this is the correct way but seems like it would work.

aero3113

I just put an anti glare screen protector on my iPad, I also bought a ram mount that will suction to the starboard window. I plan on using the Navionics app along with the chart plotter that’s installed. I just wish my chart plotter had a bigger screen.  Seems like the screen protector will help with the sun. With my 242 I used my phone and a ram mount on the starboard window and loved it.

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

Maybe use the existing holes to screw in a piece of marine plywood behind with 3M 5200. Use fiberglass filler, let it cure, remove the screws then gel coat it, sand and polish. I don’t know if this is the correct way but seems like it would work.

Exactly what I was thinking except I was planning to use starboard; any idea if fiberglass will bond to it?

I'm going to use an iPad Pro for Navionics.

In my Four Winns I used an "x-lock" case from Studio Proper and made a custom mount that I installed in the cupholder.  It was slick.

aero3113

The fiberglass will definitely bond better to the marine ply.

YYZRC

All of the fluid lines exposed at the outdrive (gear lube, hydraulic) are in rough shape and one is leaking - Aero, you’ve probably already checked yours but if not you should! I’m replacing everything along with bellows, gimbal bearings, etc. 

MarkB

YYZRC said:

I need to deal with repairing a nasty section of the arch where the paint has blistered off. Any thoughts? Was planning to hit it with some body filler and awlgrip. 

I believe the arch is made of aluminum.  Watch how you prep ... it oxidizes very quickly. I'm not sure Rustoleum is a good idea ... it has pickling agents in to get the paint to stick, which may be too corrosive for the aluminum. 

I suggest figuring out what the appropriate priming method is for aluminum. Once primed, you should be okay with the top coats. 

That blister probably happened because it wasn't primed properly ... probably oxidized in that spot ... and then you're done, need to resand to get back to metal.

aero3113

Mine are in good shape.I replaced those lines on my 242 last season, not a bad job. Just make sure you bring the drives up and down a bunch of times before you put the boat in the water. I had to pull my 242 out of the water to tighten one up that came loose. It would be nice if you can bring the drive up and down with the lines loose so they can self position then tighten them.

aero3113

I will probably have the gimbal bearings changed when I have the port side steering pin replaced (leaking). I also want to have the engine alignment checked on both engines.

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

Mine are in good shape.I replaced those lines on my 242 last season, not a bad job. Just make sure you bring the drives up and down a bunch of times before you put the boat in the water. I had to pull my 242 out of the water to tighten one up that came loose. It would be nice if you can bring the drive up and down with the lines loose so they can self position then tighten them.

Thanks - I am going to let the marina tackle this as I just don’t have the time. Also it’s their problem if one comes loose

YYZRC

I want to figure out a way to jury rig some sort of (safe) slide for the back of the 330.  Has anyone every tried to rig something like this over the transom and off the swim platform?



https://ravesports.com/dock-slide-00002

Spyderweb

@aero3113 I finally had the starboard side steering pin replaced this past Fall (leaking since I got boat).  They also replaced gimbal bearing and bellows while they had it.  

aero3113

@Spyderweb , I wish I didn’t have to get it done but will be good to have everything looked over at the same time. I just had it done on my 242 about 9 months ago 

YYZRC

Sorry, dumb question of the day - where is the steering pin and is this something I should be dealing with at the same time as the bellows?

aero3113

@YYZRC , this is the steering pin. The seals usually wear because the pin corroded. The new pins are stainless. Once the seals wear, water will start to leak in. 

YYZRC

Thanks Aero.  I did some googling to better understand this; if I understand correctly the replacement is relatively easy with the outdrives removed?

Ian

Umm, no. It’s a PITA job but can be done without removing engine. And you need to look at the transom pic to see the actual seal.

YYZRC

Finished the cabinet install and replaced the fridge frame with stainless. Need to clean up and screw the cabinet in place but almost there!

YYZRC

I found a gross pool of water under the binnacle!

aero3113

@YYZRC the cabinet looks great! Definitely going to come in handy. If/when my ice maker stops working, it might be something I will install. This is my first boat with an ice maker, curious how we’re going to like it. Hopefully you will find out where the water came from. There is a plate under the captains seat that you can remove that might give you access to that area or remove the speaker. I could be wrong, but there might be a drain in that area.

YYZRC

I believe the water leaked in around the binnacle.  There was no seal.  I'm in the process of replacing the binnacle so access was easy.  I also need to replace all the speakers as the cones are shot.  I also ran the harness for the bow thruster today.

Spyderweb

@aero We weren't sure how much we'd use the ice maker.  Our marina doesn't have potable water.  We found that if we turned it on when we arrived at the boat, within 45 minutes it was cold enough to put ice cubes from home in it and they would stay solid when out on the water with minimal melting till evening when we come back to the dock.  Then we'd rechill it again.  We could do this for 3 or 4 days and still have ice to put in cooler to pack cold foods for the trip home.  

Spyderweb

@YYZRC Nice job on the cabinet!  If ours had come with that instead of the ice maker, that would have been just fine.

Spyderweb

@YYZRC is it possible that the cupholder could seep water to that area?

YYZRC

Spyderweb said:

@YYZRC is it possible that the cupholder could seep water to that area?

I’m not totally sure but I don’t think so - great question though as I’m not sure where water intrusion around any part of the helm would end up!

YYZRC

I find the helm position very uncomfortable. The seat doesn’t go far enough back/the wheel isn’t far enough forward to suit me.

Is it possible to replace the steering hub with a less bulky version? I think if I could reduce the extension of the steering wheel by 2” I would be comfortable.