I think someone on the forum modified their transom door actuator mounts. They used longer actuators and moved the lower mounts lower.
I've had both the struts off my transom door and know it will swing way beyond 90 degrees, so it would be possible.
Awesome! I could see having to modify the canvas slightly to accommodate (or at least partially unzipping the back camper panel), but I'm excited about this as a stop-gap measure until I can afford a center console dinghy.
@YYZRC , The week I closed on the 330 my wife said she thinks she found our next boat (years down the road). She showed me the Rinker video of the 360 on YouTube. Beautiful!
@YYZRC , The week I closed on the 330 my wife said she thinks she found our next boat (years down the road). She showed me the Rinker video of the 360 on YouTube. Beautiful!
Love the 360 with hardtop. I hope I can find (afford) a coupe for my next boat. I’m so done with canvas!!
I have some pages from that catalog. I made up a binder for system info and receipts, I have the last pic on the cover of the binder.
I received all the manuals including the original warranty registration documents from Mercury with the engine/drive/transom serial numbers! The original owner of my 330 was from Bronxville NY.
How do I know if my engines are "Horizon" (and wtf is Horizon, anyway)??
Engine cover indicates 350 MAG MPI Seacore, and pulling the serial number up on the Merc parts site allows me to choose either regular or Horizon engine options.
Do you think it would be possible to get the "non-fishing" transom door to hinge beyond 90 degrees? I would love to stash my little 6hp Yammy in there if possible, but I'm not a contortionist.
@YYZRC - Yes, it's pretty easy. Here's the thread.
I changed the impeller in my old Volvo-powered boat and it was dead easy. After reading the threads about the Hardin pumps, I have angst about changing the impellers in the Merc. Any reason to not tackle this job?
You can take the body of the pump off with out removing the back part where the hoses are. Even easier if the stud comes out then the pump will lower down to get to the 6 10mm bolts.
That video is not the horizon model. The pump housing is different because off the air lines and the plunger. Look at the corrosion on the housing same seal leaking. Ps love fast Eddie from long Island.
I need to deal with repairing a nasty section of the arch where the paint has blistered off. Any thoughts? Was planning to hit it with some body filler and awlgrip.
That’s a strange place for it to blister. I would say yes to your plan. Even Rustoleum would work, spray it on and wet sand. You probably wouldn’t even notice it. Can you take a closer pic of it?
That was a pic that the broker sent me before I bought the boat - it's got some white tape over it now and I haven't peeled the tape off yet to inspect.
I will definitely chip off all the loose paint, just worried about bonding to the aluminum and matching the existing paint. The base of the arch is also a bit corroded and needs some love.
That 3rd wire could be wired to a manual over ride switch and/or indicator light. The indicator light would come on when shes pumping. If you have any unused accessory switches on the dash it could be an easy addition.
I'd want a switch for a back up as the manual switch would power from a different fuse/relay if the other failed but it's not necessary by any means.
Comments
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.howtogeek.com/211843/usb-type-c-explained-what-it-is-and-why-youll-want-it/amp/
Engine cover indicates 350 MAG MPI Seacore, and pulling the serial number up on the Merc parts site allows me to choose either regular or Horizon engine options.
https://www.snapincarpet.com/marine-weave.cfm
https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/5613/how-to-make-the-transom-locker-door-open-to-full-height-on-360-370
I've got closed cooling but my engine is labeled as "SeaCore".
https://youtu.be/rOrlvEypvBM
I will definitely chip off all the loose paint, just worried about bonding to the aluminum and matching the existing paint. The base of the arch is also a bit corroded and needs some love.
I'd want a switch for a back up as the manual switch would power from a different fuse/relay if the other failed but it's not necessary by any means.