What did you do to your boat today

captkevin

Should be able to make it work. Might have to adjust the fittings so they are point at each other more. We had these back when we had campers. Always blew out & left empty for winter 

aero3113

I always wasted a ton of antifreeze for the heater!

aero3113

And it was a pain to get it out of the system in the spring.

YYZRC

I had that Camco bypass, and same as you, I let it collect dust for several years before installing it. I just threw the kit in the garbage after 2 seasons of use. The valves corrode quickly.

I use Sharkbite fittings on the tank and now when I winterize I just pop the PEX off the tank and connect the lines together.

aero3113

@YYZRC , What corroded on them? The exterior of the valves or the internals? There’s fresh water going through them 🤷🏻‍♂️. I can spray the exterior with corrosion protection if exterior.

YYZRC

I'm in freshwater so no real corrosion issues externally. They got super stiff to turn (like a faucet cartridge that needs to be replaced).

aero3113

I just looked on Amazon, I purchased it in October of 2021 😂

grouch0jr

I installed the same bypass kit on my water heater last season while winterizing. I had to pay with it a bit to get everything to line up right, but it still went on quick. I'm very happy with it!

aero3113

I don’t know what took me so long to want to install it. Seems like it will be such a time saver.

Dream_Inn

I have the bypass kit on my water heater.  I added it the first year I got the boat (2012) and never an issue with the valve.  I will say I leave water in the tank until I complete the winterization of the fresh water system, then drain the heater.  The prevents any feedback from the valve into the tank (which I've had in the past - I think this is due to only one switch valve that came with the kit?).  Aero, I can't believe it took you this long.  You are always on top of getting other things done with the boat .   

aero3113

@Dream_Inn what do you mean by “only one switch valve “? My kit has two valves.

aero3113

I’m thinking to put the raw water side to the new heater in a loop and not have the raw water run through the heater. The barbs on the tank are always the first to corrode and leak. Most of our boating now is to a marina with power. We’re not taking showers in the head if we anchor out for the day (could always run the generator also). The only thing would be the transom shower wouldn’t be “hot”. 

YYZRC

aero3113 said:

I’m thinking to put the raw water side to the new heater in a loop and not have the raw water run through the heater. The barbs on the tank are always the first to corrode and leak. Most of our boating now is to a marina with power. We’re not taking showers in the head if we anchor out for the day (could always run the generator also). The only thing would be the transom shower wouldn’t be “hot”. 

Funny you say this. I hate blowing out the engine heat loop when winterizing, it's a pain in the ****. And you're right, that's always the first point of failure. 

On the 390, I'm looking into running coolant through the water heater loop instead of raw water.

aero3113

Should be easy for you to do @YYZRC since your engines are fresh water cooled.

Dream_Inn

aero3113 said:

Should be easy for you to do @YYZRC since your engines are fresh water cooled.

If they are fresh water cooled, then the antifreeze runs thru the water heater portion.  No need to do anything at all.

aero3113 said:

@Dream_Inn what do you mean by “only one switch valve “? My kit has two valves.

I only have a switch for the water coming into the water heater.  Then, I believe, I have a one way valve coming out of the water heater before the T that would come in from that switch.

aero3113

Got ya @Dream_Inn

aero3113

I received the water heater today and installed the kit. Fits pretty well and I like how the valves are positioned so I can see them when the heater is installed. Honestly I never knew there was a reset breaker on the heater, unless I forgot!!

aero3113

I have some spare parts now!

aero3113

Received the power steering cooler and the actuator today.

YYZRC

Why did you need a new steering actuator?

aero3113

It’s leaking at the seal. I was able to get a good deal on a new one instead of sending it out for a rebuild. Also, I noticed that there’s some play in one of the clevis pins because one of the holes on the actuator is out of round.

Formulaben

How much did the actuator set you back?!

aero3113

$727, normally north of $1500.

rasbury

@aero3113, I had to replace my power steering cooler also. I'll see if I can find the picture I posted. I don't see it on yours yet but I believe there will be a temperature sensor screwed in there somewhere...that whole cooler is, at least on mine, very soft copper I'd guess as it bends VERY easy- even clamping on the hoses was concerning....I was almost tempted to find a thin wall piece of tubing to put in the copperside to keep it from crushing. Anyway, on ours, somehow the fitting which was brazed into a hole in that very soft material, had been broken off...and was put back on with JB weld! I did one up and superglued it back on! Just kidding. I think the leak also caused the power steering pump to go- which if that happens you can easily replace it with a gm Saginaw pump- exact same thing. The pump reservoir however is not the same.As long as the reservoir is ok, it seperates easily and the pumps like 40 bucks.
I just can't imagine how that was broken. 
On the mobile app, is there no search feature? Maybe I'd stop asking stupid questions if I can find it.

PickleRick

rasbury said:

@aero3113, I had to replace my power steering cooler also. I'll see if I can find the picture I posted. I don't see it on yours yet but I believe there will be a temperature sensor screwed in there somewhere...that whole cooler is, at least on mine, very soft copper I'd guess as it bends VERY easy- even clamping on the hoses was concerning....I was almost tempted to find a thin wall piece of tubing to put in the copperside to keep it from crushing. Anyway, on ours, somehow the fitting which was brazed into a hole in that very soft material, had been broken off...and was put back on with JB weld! I did one up and superglued it back on! Just kidding. I think the leak also caused the power steering pump to go- which if that happens you can easily replace it with a gm Saginaw pump- exact same thing. The pump reservoir however is not the same.As long as the reservoir is ok, it seperates easily and the pumps like 40 bucks.
I just can't imagine how that was broken. 
On the mobile app, is there no search feature? Maybe I'd stop asking stupid questions if I can find it.

I've heard some say you need to change out the pressure regulator in the pump to do this. Ive also read where some people didnt know and never had an issue. 

rasbury

@PickleRick now that you mentioned it I do remember that being a part of a conversation..I don't remember how I handled it but have not had any issues. And yes, unless you've been there, no good reason to know what I'm talking about!

grouch0jr

rasbury said:

On the mobile app, is there no search feature?

I've also noticed this.

aero3113

I got the new water heater in today. I had to cut the water lines a little bit to get them to fit on easily. I also put in a loop so the raw water doesn’t go through the water heater (I’m not 100 % sure I’m going to keep it like this, but will this winter). I forgot to take a before picture of the space the water heater was in, it was so dirty! All cleaned up now and got the rust stain off the best I could. 

Dream_Inn

I changed out the O2 sensor on my generator today.  Talk about something that should be so simple, but yet in a difficult spot and can’t get a wrench on it because it is recessed.  I had to cut it in half and then was able to put a deep socket on it.  It fixed my EC60 code that wouldn’t let it start.

aero3113

Nice @Dream_Inn ! 

But would’ve been easier if you used an O2 sensor socket.