What did you do to your boat today

Rich_

Added fuel stabilizer and gas. Burnt some on way to dinner 

rasbury

Nap time

aero3113

I bought this expandable scrub brush to get all the hard to reach spots in the engine compartment. I always used a toilet brush but it wouldn’t get in the corners.

https://a.co/d/07Hr7xBT

grouch0jr

aero3113 said:

aero3113 said:

$727, normally north of $1500.

I think I need to replace mine. Did you get this from Mercury/Quicksilver? Also, how did you know which one to buy, should I be able to find a part number stamped on the original?

grouch0jr

I just did a sterndrive parts look up and found it (earlier I was unsuccessfully trying to find it by engine). It looks like most Bravo IIIs use the  8M0208402 actuator. I don't know my drive serial numbers, so its hard to verify. 

Spyderweb

@aero3113 I also use a toilet brush.  That little brush you got is great.  Like it was custom made for us boaters.

Dream_Inn

I usually use a small hand brush for the floors and then they walls are usually mold that come right off with a mold armor spray from HD.  Where in the ER do you use this brush?  Just curious.

YYZRC

Man you guys work hard. I spray with degreaser and then pressure wash.

aero3113

@grouch0jr I think there’s an older part number that’s discontinued. When you search for it, you’ll see. I got mine new from a seller on eBay.

aero3113

The brush should come in handy!!

aero3113

I did a lot today. I had a slight oil drip I noticed this season from my starboard oil pan near the dipstick tube. I went around and tightened all the bolts on both engines. I was surprised that I was able to turn most of them and snug them up, the ones near the dipstick tube I was able to almost get one full turn. I replaced impellers and the starboard side was about to lose some veins. I never had this happen, 2 seasons old. Also, when installing the pump on the starboard side a clamp broke, luckily it happened now!

grouch0jr

Yesterday I changed my fuel filters. I've read about the paint problems on the Cool Fuel modules, so I'm assuming that's what I'm seeing here. Am I in trouble here, or is this 'minor'?

rasbury

grouch0jr said:

Yesterday I changed my fuel filters. I've read about the paint problems on the Cool Fuel modules, so I'm assuming that's what I'm seeing here. Am I in trouble here, or is this 'minor'?

Is there ever minor?

aero3113

@grouch0jr how does the rest of the inside look? The area that’s missing paint looks like it’s only where the filter housing gasket sits. Is the disc filter in the picture the original or the new one? It looks pretty clean if it’s the old one.

grouch0jr

aero3113 said:

@grouch0jr how does the rest of the inside look? The area that’s missing paint looks like it’s only where the filter housing gasket sits. Is the disc filter in the picture the original or the new one? It looks pretty clean if it’s the old one.

The rest of the inside of the cavity looks fine. That's the new fuel filter, the old one had some build up on it, but i didn't notice any paint chips.

grouch0jr

rasbury said:

Is there ever minor?

Haha, no, there isn't.

aero3113

@grouch0jr , I’m pretty sure you’ll be okay as long as the O-Ring isn’t leaking. My port pump has some paint missing in that area also but not as much as yours.

grouch0jr

I'll leave it be. I'll check for leaks when she goes back in, and then next winter I'll see if more paint is gone. Maybe I'll get my injectors cleaned, though

earl1z19

I would pull the cool fuel unit off, remove the pumps and have the housing sand blasted to get rid of any paint on the inside and then reassemble the unit. I also would wait to clean the injectors until you have  repaired the unit just so you have a fresh start with everything clean.

Dream_Inn

So, I'm curious @aero3113 , why would you not wait to change your impeller until spring?  Winter is extremely difficult on impellers and the main reason I change them every two years.  I think the impellers can only withstand one winter, which causes them to crack after sitting in the stressed position for up to half a year (4 months for me).  I make sure to change mine out after the second winter before I start the boat.

As for the fuel cool, I've been thru that disaster way too many times and it never ended well.  Went thru I believe 3 changes on each motor, but Merc swears that the coating is ok for ethanol fuel.  Since I've had the opportunity, the last several years I've been using ethanol free fuel.  This summer I briefly used ethanol gas cause it was going to be burned immediately & couldn't pass up $2 cheaper a gallon.  I agree with Earl's statement above.  That paint will continue to peel and clog your regulator.  If you wait it will also cause issues in your fuel injectors.  Been there done that way too many times!

grouch0jr

If I get the housing sand blasted, is it fine being unpainted? I'm not sure what the material is so I don't know if rust will be a problem. Should I ultimately plan on upgrading to the newer Cool Fuel module?

rasbury

So far, and i assume my 350 mpi has cool fuel, I've never had the issue. I've consistently used non ethanol fuel, not sure what the PO did but he only did it for 50 hours as far as I know...

aero3113

@Dream_Inn I usually do it this time of year and get three seasons out of them. Never had one look like this.

Dream_Inn

aero3113 said:

@Dream_Inn I usually do it this time of year and get three seasons out of them. Never had one look like this.

Consider yourself very lucky.

grouch0jr said:

If I get the housing sand blasted, is it fine being unpainted? I'm not sure what the material is so I don't know if rust will be a problem. Should I ultimately plan on upgrading to the newer Cool Fuel module?

The newer ones seem to be much better.  I really don't know what the coating exactly is and if it is ok just to remove and use.  My guess would be yes, but then I'd wonder why it was there in the first place.

Ras, ethanol free is your friend in keeping your old fuel cooler from doing this.  Just keep doing the same thing.

earl1z19

grouch0jr said:

If I get the housing sand blasted, is it fine being unpainted? I'm not sure what the material is so I don't know if rust will be a problem. Should I ultimately plan on upgrading to the newer Cool Fuel module?

You should be fine running the module without it being painted. You can rebuild the old pump a bunch of times for the price of a new one but it would depend on the possibility that you are in salt water and if the housing is deteriorating because of salt erosion

aero3113

@Dream_Inn , look at where the cracks are. They’re opposite the rotation. I found that strange.

Dream_Inn

aero3113 said:

@Dream_Inn , look at where the cracks are. They’re opposite the rotation. I found that strange.

It actually isn't strange.  It is the compression side which actually is taking more of a beating.  That harder rubber has a tougher time getting compressed rather than stretching (which is opposite side).  Those that use their boat most of the year can get more time out of the impellers.  Leaving them compressed for half of the year will cause exactly what you are seeing.

aero3113

@Dream_Inn , I’m thinking I may have rotated the engine backwards at first when I was setting the engine at TDC before I started the engine work. This would’ve spun the impeller backwards and stressed the veins.

YYZRC

@aero3113 my first year with the 350 I had changed the impellers before launch. When I started the boat the belt was slipping/screaming like crazy. I guess I had installed the new impeller with the veins facing the wrong way and there wasn’t enough tension on the belt to turn the impeller. Had to crank the water pump pulley with a wrench to right it. 

That said I would be surprised if you would be able to rotate the impeller backwards via the belt during your engine work. 

aero3113

@YYZRC , I know for a fact I rotated the port engine the opposite way when I replaced the heads. I was able to hear the veins click and invert. I Sadie to myself oops!