I have a leak also on my port side front bed. I tried sealing around the rail base and screws and the water was still coming in. I also pulled the rub rail off and filled in all the holes and I’m still getting water inside. I’m making me crazy!! Lol
"I saw some water stains where my transom locker hand rail mounts. I pulled it off and straightened the threaded rods (they were slightly bent from tying to it for shrink wrap) and sealed with 3M 4200. Would be nice to do this to everything that’s through mounted to the hull."
@aero3113 This was one of the 1st things I noticed the 1st time I saw my boat. No big concern, easy to fix. Or so I thought. That transom door is hollow. And water enters at the bolt holes and gets trapped inside. Discovered that in the Spring when I took possession and started working on the boat. If you take the struts off, you can open the door higher. When raising and lowering the door, I could hear water sloshing around inside. Raise it all the way up, water drips out bolt holes then stops. Drop the door, raise it again, and more water comes out. Did this several days till it stopped, left the inside holes open to hopefully dry out, then sealed it up like you did. Checked that project off the list.
Several weeks later, with boat finally moved up to my marina, I noticed more rust water seeping out of the inside holes. Removed railing again. Now drilled several holes in bottom, inside of door to let water drain out better. Every time we went to boat, I would spend some time blowing hair drier up holes to help dry thing out. Would stuff edge of paper towel up holes to check for moisture. Which I continued to find. Back to the hair drier. It wasn't until end of July that I finished that "easy fix". This time, in addition to feeling comfortable I dried things out, I filled the 3 bolt holes with epoxy, re-drilled out, and mounted the railing, this time sealing with butyl tape. So far she looks good.
@Spyderweb when I had the rail out, I think I remember seeing the holes sealed around the edges. Hopefully I’m right, I’ll recheck when I get a chance. I should be able to see if I just remove the nut and washer on the back side.
State of Mich extended the personal distance order until the end of April now. That includes marinas. Going to be a massive scramble to get ready to launch for everyone assuming we get a go on May 1.
@PickleRick, sanding sucks. I sanded the bottom paint off my boat last spring. It took forever using a random orbital palm sander. I was blue for days!!! Your boat is looking good. Keep up the good work.
2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes" Go Steelers!!!
Replaced trim tab blades could not install upside down do to the piano hinge. Scraped the area of bottom paint it appears that there is a barrier coat of gray. There was plent of sealer on the old blade was able to clean it off sand the gel coat clean with acetone and reapply with 5200 think it is sealed up good. Do have to get new hardware for the bottom of the cylinder. Think I will paint the cylinders with bottom paint to keep barnacles away.
Apparently i went all season without a working shift interrupt switch. I am always low, slow and precise with shifting so it would never grind. If i had currents or heavy winds to deal with im sure id have noticed.
Interrupt switch will not activate unless there is a load on the prop ie current or boat moving while trying to shift in different direction. I always approach docks/beach slowly so I've never had it bind. My lake doesnt have a noticeable current in most locations and other than storms the winds are light and variable. That is why a stretched shift cable will kill the engine when trying to shift. When properly adjusted and functional the switch will not activate when boat is still in water, very slow speeds or on muffs. You really need a helper to hold tension on prop while you shift gears and test the function of the switch.
While ive been in several strong storms aboard the rinker, i always drop anchor in leeward cove and ride it out. These little flat hull trailer boats pound in close/square waves kicked up by storms.
I spent this morning cleaning the B3 SS props with muratic acid and also did the trim tabs. Also replaced the B3 'rear cover' o-ring and re-filled drive oil.
Tomorrow if weather holds up will wire brush the few spots on the drive and touch up some spots with paint, reinstall props and maybe put the biminis back on so I can install the enclosure and work even in the rain.
Still have to re-install my swim platform, mount 1 new battery box, reseal everything on stern with 4200 and fix my shower sump. Should be done after all that. oh, and buff and wax boat...lol
I guess I won't complain about my winterize and de winterize procedures anymore. My springtime procedure consist of flushing the freshwater system of antifreeze, wash boat in and out, and turn off my bilge heater. Oh yeah and I have to re stock the refrigerator. We've been out 3 times so far in the last couple weeks but not really anywhere to go since all the marinas with services we go to are ghost town.
With all the time I have spent on here though I have a list of things to do to the boat now and all sorts of stuff on order.
Preventative maintance. In fresh water these manifolds are known to last 20 years. Being the service history had been questionable at best on this boat i figured it best to swap them out.
If im pulling them to inspect im not reinstalling. Nuwave marine had these shipped for less than 800.
Since fall, transom, stinger and motor mount rebuild. New fuel tank, new cabin floor, new carpet, rebuilt gauge and ignition switch back plates. New trim hoses. New bellows. New water pump. New fuel filter and oil change. Outdrive oil change. Added amp and 4 new speakers, added a toaster oven. Led light conversion. Built a v berth table. Added a gps/chart plotter/fish finder
Comments
Go Steelers!!!
The sanding contintues.
Go Steelers!!!
@aero3113 This was one of the 1st things I noticed the 1st time I saw my boat. No big concern, easy to fix. Or so I thought. That transom door is hollow. And water enters at the bolt holes and gets trapped inside. Discovered that in the Spring when I took possession and started working on the boat. If you take the struts off, you can open the door higher. When raising and lowering the door, I could hear water sloshing around inside. Raise it all the way up, water drips out bolt holes then stops. Drop the door, raise it again, and more water comes out. Did this several days till it stopped, left the inside holes open to hopefully dry out, then sealed it up like you did. Checked that project off the list.
Several weeks later, with boat finally moved up to my marina, I noticed more rust water seeping out of the inside holes. Removed railing again. Now drilled several holes in bottom, inside of door to let water drain out better. Every time we went to boat, I would spend some time blowing hair drier up holes to help dry thing out. Would stuff edge of paper towel up holes to check for moisture. Which I continued to find. Back to the hair drier. It wasn't until end of July that I finished that "easy fix". This time, in addition to feeling comfortable I dried things out, I filled the 3 bolt holes with epoxy, re-drilled out, and mounted the railing, this time sealing with butyl tape. So far she looks good.
I wish you luck with yours.
On the list after bottom paint. Will do a more updated style/custom vinyl graphics.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
About a 1/3 of the port side is done now.
Marine grade stool for me to sit on while sanding.
More sanding done. Im ready to block her up now.
Im taking a break to eat lunch then it's time to install the new manifolds and risers.
Go Steelers!!!
Well. It's assembled properly now.
While ive been in several strong storms aboard the rinker, i always drop anchor in leeward cove and ride it out. These little flat hull trailer boats pound in close/square waves kicked up by storms.
With all the time I have spent on here though I have a list of things to do to the boat now and all sorts of stuff on order.
If im pulling them to inspect im not reinstalling. Nuwave marine had these shipped for less than 800.
Since fall, transom, stinger and motor mount rebuild. New fuel tank, new cabin floor, new carpet, rebuilt gauge and ignition switch back plates. New trim hoses. New bellows. New water pump. New fuel filter and oil change. Outdrive oil change. Added amp and 4 new speakers, added a toaster oven. Led light conversion. Built a v berth table. Added a gps/chart plotter/fish finder
Im sure I've done more that im forgetting