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Comments
when i place an alignment rod through the bearing and push either down or up on the bitter end, or to either side- i can visibly see the bearing accommodating (or trying to) the altering angle... that is what i speak of loading and unloading.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Before anything else is done I'm going to either swap it myself or find someone else to do it. The correct version is a sealed bearing for 100 bucks, correct ?
Also did he install it properly? I.e. hit it with an properly oversized socket or correct bearing driver tool so the outside bearing housing takes the impact and not the bearing shield or inner race. Some guys use a huge pipe that fits the outer race.
The guy who installs it with a 2x4 is usually the one doing the damage.
Bearings dont take well to getting hit in the face.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Here is where it is on another 400 with B-3 drives
To me, they both look to have the pin in the same spot. Is the space fwd of pin?
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
Some one should have relayed that info to my blue collar Irish Catholic working class family several generations ago.
today was the very first time this season i pulled my boat in and didn't experience an issue... i've cut raw water hoses with the belt and the harmonic balancer- that's two different cuts and two different patches. i blew a power steering return line- which was exciting at 45mph and six other people on the boat- thank God i had a firm grip on the wheel when that happened... it wanted to walk left... i was drifting once this year- something i rarely do, and drifted right up on a sand bar... sucked a bunch of sand into the system and had to clear it- triggering a high temp alarm (but never broke 190, it's closed loop cooling)... i swapped the impeller 'just in case' but it was fine. i lost a buddy bearing cap off the trailer- and would have put money down someone relieved me of it, seeing as how it was brand new... just to have the same wheel pop another off, and realizing the hub is cracked. i broke a steering cable- fortunately while still on the trailer... i had a wiring issue at the dash that drove me almost to the edge- and i decided to break every single connection and redo it... and left myself a winter project of re-harnessing everything.. i've swapped a horn and rewired a new radio... new stereo and amps... i've had issue with misadjusted shift cables and throttle cable... i had a leaking thermostat neck (where the closed cooling system taps in, not the four way)... i went as far as to have a placement marked and drill in hand ready to install a new sea pump, but decided to give the foot pump one more try (with new impeller).. i've sewed cushions, and need to sew some more... i've installed an aft rope and anchor locker... i've played the prop game with the new power... i've serviced trim cylinders and pump, set trim limits, set trim sender (new sender 'disk' instead of entire new sender)... I've installed a new gimbal bearing, aligned, new bellows, and serviced the outdrive (also new- an SEI Ag2 in 1.62:1)... i've set/adjusted timing, adjusted a:f on carb, installed new batteries and battery switch....................
and i have likely 40 hours total run time on the boat.
and my boat is just a 212 bow rider... lacks all the creature comforts or complicated systems most of your floaters have.
this doesn't include washing, polishing, waxing... there is at least 60 hours spent there..
and i've loved every second.
like riding a motorcycle, either a boat is in your blood or it isn't. both are in mine. they can be frustrating, but they are worth every minute of that.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VDAfPmPVDSN9ypFHA
Sounds pretty bad when the phone is resting on the swim platform, can hear it in the engine room but not as loud.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RqZQ7Adjqnw6Jpyj8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvQry3NjH7I
And the person says
" it was engine alignment was way off and yes it went away."
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
I've adjusted that high before, and barely got what was a suitable alignment, and one that lasted a few hours of use. Every single time I've gone that high I was mismatching the rear mount kits. Every single time.
Seeing that... my guess is even if it was aligned the engine torque shifting it through the magic of leverage and those rubber bushings allows it NOT to be aligned under load... and... you've got the wrong transom engine mount kits installed. You may get by with just a plain stainless washer in there as opposed to the spring looking washer or impregnated fabric one. The angle on the rear is wrong else you wouldn't need that much stack up front.
I just had this issue... given it was an alpha.... the front was as high as the one in these pics before I could even insert the alignment rod... no bueno. Then it occurred to me through several engine swaps I'd mismatched the transom and bell housing (coupler housing) tabs... i placed a single flat likely 1/16th washer, which basically protects the drive tab and the housing tabs as its only purpose, and whallah- the drive/engine aligned near the base of the mounts in the front.
Here is the sticky part: it isnt easy to reference which kit you need.... especially if you're mismatching them.... so.... you'll have to simply figure out which one is best..... on your own.... trial and error.... however, seeing how high those are a pointer will be "the lowest stack available".... this, however, is based on the engine being aligned as it is now.... if its out of alignment you'll have to align it first and go from there.
these look to be the older cork style washers... the newer one is the silicone impregnated one i talked about... they'd be for the same kit i'd figure.
i don't have a clue what's being presented in this picture, but it has to do with those rear mounts and not using the spring looking thing...
and that would be true unless you're using an older coupler housing with the deep set 'pre-pressed' bushings in them, in which case you'd use those springy things AND a washer between the tabs.
and then there is this showing the difference somewhat:
in which the bushing slug is already in the engine coupler housing in most cases.
i'd be interested in seeing what's in between your engine coupler tabs and your transom plate mount tabs.... how high it's stacked... because the higher it is? the higher your front mounts have to be tuned to accommodate a proper alignment, and the higher they are? the more leverage your engine has on those post mounts and rubber bushings, and how susceptible it is to mis-aligning under load due to engine torquing at throttle.