Greg. I have it to a friend. I will ask him if he needs it or just wants to play with it. The motor has excessive draw, clutch is worn and Gypsy teeth are also worn. I needed a quick fix or I would have tried to repair it. Too bad it didn’t give out in a few months
So, not to hijack the thread...what causes excessive draw on the motor? Mine keeps tripping the breaker..has hardly ever been used...I plan on going through all the wiring...I did put a new breaker at the helm as a connector fell off the back...po had started to take the motor apart but looks like he quickly gave up!
I changed out the breaker/switch at my helm cause I was having issues so I started there. It seems to work better but I do still have an amp draw issue. My guess is the motor probably needs to be cleaned as well as any connections. If the brushes in the motor are dirty it will cause excessive amp draw.
Just installed atwood led nav lights … so much better then my old bulb ones with faded lenses 😊. Will need to strip factory sealant round the light on the deck and fill two holes but worth the work!!!
2008 Rinker 400 EC 2015 Scarab 165G Laser Sailboat 2002 Seadoo Explorer 2023 Seadoo Spark Trixx x 2
I was out last night and a blip showed up on radar and looked ahead and could barely see a 20' bow rider - running without lights (or so I thought) - it wasn't until I was about 100 yards away did I see very faint bow lights. So much for 2NM visibility.
Nice job cleaning it up and making it run again. Good luck in getting that engine to last after it was sunk. I think corrosion on the electrical components would be the main problem.
I fixed the missing end cap on my ladder. Thanks @Spyderweb for the link to marinedepot that has the exact replacements. Shipping was almost as much as the part but for $7.45 total it was worth getting the right part. I needed the B00-T3-CAP for my 3 step ladder on a Captiva 192.
Bilge clean enough to wear white socks in...work socks anyway. I'd say cheap Chinese lack of quality control copy. I wouldn't eat off my heat exchanger. You could sever finger foods off of rando's. He's a tough act to follow when it comes to cleanliness.
Doing a leak down test. Had a small amount of water in the drive. I had to replace a leaky o ring mid last season and did a partial drain, didn't notice any water so I didn't change the lube until the end of this season. Could have been a small amount since then.
Could have also been all the fishing string I sucked in week before last that took me an hour to remove. You'll suck 100 yards of 2.5 test at idle speeds very quickly it seems.
It's held 1 bar (gauge is off) pressure for over an hour now. I've spun the prop forwards and backwards a few times. I'll let it sit overnight. If less than 1psi drop I'll fill and call it winterized.
Merc apparently doesn't call for a vac test, they say not to do it. I've always found seals are more likely to show leak signs with vac vs pressure. Omc called for a vac test on their legs. No idea if VP does or not. Since Merc doesn't call for it I won't bother.
Gauge is from Stihl. Designed to do crank case and carb pressure tests or small fuel tanks.
Seems to also work on drives, boat fuel tanks, land Rover coolant systems and wastegate testing.
@Cableguy Greg that looks way too easy! Do it out on a raft behind the boat! Better yet, do two at one time out on the raft! I’d show you a picture but I didn’t have a fourth hand!
@J3ff if your anodes look bad after only two weeks in the water, there's a boat near you with an electrical fault dumping stray current in to the water.
Installed new fuel filters today. First time I've done it myself since removing the genny. I can now sit in the engine compartment and "comfortably" work in the space. Here are the old ones. Is this about normal (since when the yard did it I never got to see the old ones).
I polished and waxed the bow rail and all the other stainless on the boat. I also did a lot of prep for winter. I figured I’ll do it now in the water while the weather is still warm.
Since we are pretty much flooded, I'm going to spend more time buffing and getting a good coat of wax...river will be a month before we xan launch again...so will make use of the time. I'm so relieved I found my cabin leak. I can re install the ceiling of the mid ship storage area and now keep stuff down there without worrying about it getting wet and moldy. That is a huge relief. Next I need to figure out my trim operation and get that working right. Weather now is just incredible, shame we can't get to the water...but who knows what's floating in there right now anyway.
Comments
I did just look online and there looks to be replacement motors for about $200.
We don't use ours very much but I have been trying to run it more and it seems like it's getting better.
2015 Scarab 165G
Laser Sailboat
2002 Seadoo Explorer
2023 Seadoo Spark Trixx x 2
Go Steelers!!!
https://youtu.be/jCVnBnhd8_c
🤣. I thought you misspelled crap, had to read it twice. I guess it will eventually turn to that though.
Also those kids of yours are the perfect size for engine compartment work and all those other cramped areas.
There was a bunch of that up there also!
Yes, would love to get them to work in the engine compartment!😂
Bilge clean enough to wear white socks in...work socks anyway. I'd say cheap Chinese lack of quality control copy. I wouldn't eat off my heat exchanger. You could sever finger foods off of rando's. He's a tough act to follow when it comes to cleanliness.
Doing a leak down test. Had a small amount of water in the drive. I had to replace a leaky o ring mid last season and did a partial drain, didn't notice any water so I didn't change the lube until the end of this season. Could have been a small amount since then.
Could have also been all the fishing string I sucked in week before last that took me an hour to remove. You'll suck 100 yards of 2.5 test at idle speeds very quickly it seems.
It's held 1 bar (gauge is off) pressure for over an hour now. I've spun the prop forwards and backwards a few times. I'll let it sit overnight. If less than 1psi drop I'll fill and call it winterized.
Merc apparently doesn't call for a vac test, they say not to do it. I've always found seals are more likely to show leak signs with vac vs pressure. Omc called for a vac test on their legs. No idea if VP does or not. Since Merc doesn't call for it I won't bother.
Gauge is from Stihl. Designed to do crank case and carb pressure tests or small fuel tanks.
Seems to also work on drives, boat fuel tanks, land Rover coolant systems and wastegate testing.
Go Steelers!!!
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Go Steelers!!!
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
Puked water thru the waste vent on the hull side.
Gotta clean/dry out the vent line & replace filter media. Dammit.