Best Of

I removed my halon system over the weekend to pull the fresh water tank out so that I could add a drain to the shelf where the fresh water/poop/hot water tanks live.

This caused me to read into halon systems a bit.  They're no longer offered due to the impact to the ozone layer but are still used in airplanes as there's no equally efficient/effective alternative.  For boats, you are not required to proactively remove your halon system so long as it is serviceable.  The halon gas is no longer produced so recharging a halon system is done with recycled halon.

Some interesting discussion here:
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f117/question-about-removing-halon-extinguisher-207608.html

When going down this rabbit hole, I also learned that 52% of boat fires originate with the batteries/electrical system:
https://www.boatingmag.com/fixed-marine-fire-extinguishing-systems-for-boats/

My halon tank is fully charged and in great shape (no corrosion), so I will reinstall it, but I am going to relocate it to the port side of the boat near the batteries/charger/etc.  As a bonus, this will help mitigate my starboard list.

Aqua_Aura said:

So how did you end up connecting the line to the boat? 

I got a proper harness (Airhead, I think) and connected it to the D-rings on the transom. It worked fine and no issues with the outdrives grabbing it.

I remowed the cooler and made some extra space. Very happy with this solution:

http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/1875/hatch-doors-in-290ec-etc-where-to-find#latest

@oscar1 I used IP67 lights and tapped into the cockpit light circuit as there are lots of extra connectors in the harness. Blue wire with black stripe. 

 

I added a switch so that they are not always on with the cockpit lights.