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Comments
stern light cover is yellow and I'd go through the boat and replace with all LED's for nav lights and such as well... good winter project.
1) remove the screw down fuel filter and also the primary one that comes right off the tank. (looks like a little tube with barbed fittings) dump each filter into a bottle and put paper towel at the top as a filter. Check and see if you see small pieces of rust and aluminum. When my tank started going back had a I checked this during my survey I could have found it and negotiated the price down for a new tank. Instead I got stuck replacing the tank a year later and pulled filters and dumped them and found tons of rust in them and metal from the rotting tank.
2) I had that vibration you are talking about and mine was caused by 2 things but can be 3. First off I had a feeling my gimbal bearing was going because I could hear it "growling" when it idled. I was right when I pulled it was just starting to go. Replaced it. Second also found out my bell housing for the drive had one of the "ears" where the pins go through had a crack in it probably from previous owner hitting something underwater accidentally and not knowing. I replaced the bellhousing. Last is the props. If the props are real clean or have any knicks can cause a virbration. And ok number 4 if the u joints are going it can do that as well. Typically if you lift the drive all the way up at idle itll get noisy. then put it down and quiets up usually U joints.
3) last thing often overlooked and is costly to replace is the drive carrier bearing. You just need to pull off both props and you will see the housing of the carrier bearing. If you see lots of pitting around it and corrosion it will need to be done soon and is a expensive job. If it fails itll let water into the drive and itll be toast in short order.
Sounds like a nice boat otherwise. I look forward to checking it out if you do get it. Keep us informed !
Go Steelers!!!
I'd want to be setup to run the AC out on the water if needed, so is he being overly cautious or am I going to be looking for a generator with a 30 amp outlet?
Plus I only used the bow anchor, to make sure the boat would swing with the wind.
I don't see any issues if you do it right.
The 6,000 BTU AC on my 270 draws ~6A (~650 Watts). I have powered it with a generator rated at 1600 W running (2000 W starting). The microwave does not work well while the AC is on however (when on the generator).
Keep in mind that Honda makes at EU2000i Companion model that has a 30A receptacle (just confirm the the 30A receptacle has power even when the generator is used by itself, that is without a second generator in parallel mode) . The EU2000i base model does not have a 30A receptacle. The Companion model will enable you to plug your shore power cord directly into the generator. Otherwise you will need to make up an adapter to connect the generator 20A receptacle to the boat 30A receptacle or connect the boat/AC to the generator in some other way. You will of course need to self manage the load that you put on the generator because it will likely not be able to supply power to all of your boats systems at the same time (like shore power can).
The 20A receptacle is the same form factor as is used in your house (it accepts 2 and 3 prong plugs). The 30A receptacle takes 3 prong plugs on the circular pattern as is on your shore power cord.
Lastly yet perhaps most important, a nice safety feature on that generator is the fuel vent closure. Make sure the vent is closed while the generator is not in use and you will cut down on the risk of unwanted gas fumes.
Powerhorse (61 dB(A) at full load)
Honda (59 dB(A) at full load)
With a little digging you will find that Honda measures the noise rating at 3 meters while Powerhorse measures at 7 meters. Scaled for distance, the sound pressure level of the Powerhorse is almost 10 times that of the Honda!
Also, buy one or better yet two carbon monoxide detectors for the cabin and verify that they work.
MD, don't worry, I won't be getting a knock off and I really don't expect to need to run it much, only on the hottest of days. My current boat (1987 Cruisers INC Holiday 25) has never had AC and in the past 4 years I can only remember ONE time that I was wishing it had it. Will just be nice to be able to have the option, you know
Assuming worst case scenario:
- What does it cost to have the B3 rebuilt/replaced
- What would a repower to a higher HP cost?
- Say the AC stop works immediately, what kind of cost is it to have that replaced?
- haha have looked at this many times Easiest option is 383 mag mpi. Price installed is around 10-11k
-Very expensive to have ac installed in a boat that didnt have it. but being that you do already parts are little costly when they break but not earth shattering usually. Maybe 300-400 if something fails .
All in low cost and the 350 mag mpi are good engines. long its maintained and not pounded on I have seen them last 1200-1500 hours. Being that its not FWC you will need to do the heads very soon if they arent done already. The salt water can rot them out and then you get water in the block and its done. Looks like the top end on that motor may already be redone. Very clean. Good luck and keep us posted. Only few towns away if you need any help!
The thing ran faster then I'd ever need... 38/39 gps. right at the RPMS you guys and other threads have mentioned.
So back to the Air conditioning. This boat does NOT have a generator built in. Does that mean you can't run the Air conditioning when the motor is running?
Today on the way in it was beautiful on the water, but super hot in the harbor.. it would have been perfect to have a nice cool cabin... is it true that you can only run the AC while on dock power or on Honda 2000i generator power? I just ordered one of those honda generators 10 mins ago for the purpose of Air conditioning.
Ya cant run the AC unless plugged into shore power.....or a generator plugged into your shore power works just fine too. dont need built in.
Yup honda is number one rated. wont be disappointed. On side note though if you open up cabin windows and hatch while cruising at all it is actually pretty cool down there. Seems pretty well insulated with the headliner and stuff. The humidity is what kills it though.
My culprits were:
the three compartments under the v berth needed a cleaning.
The rug I cleaned with a spray cleaner( similar to simple green) and a wet towel soaked in fabric softner I then shop vac the carpets to remove moisture.
Like dazeoff said, The hatch behind the step that contains the shower sump and a/c and toilet valves needed a good cleaning. Also, the a/c vent hose inside there is probably moldy inside, id replace that for sure for respitory reasons.
And finally ordered a jabsco toilet rebuild kit so waste water stays where it should. I cleaned all these areas with a good degreaser/cleaner and papertowels then BLEACH and water....carefully of course. LET IT ALL AIR OUT GOOD WITH A FAN DURING AND AFTER BLEACHING.
the trim tab actuators prob need replacing at 130.00 each. IMO, depending on what has recently been replaced and what options it doesn't have, I think theres wiggle room for sure in that price if some big ticket items arent fairly new.
Ps: Please pull that boat out of the water and look at the drive!
Go Steelers!!!
1. I haven't seen any other 2004 270 without heat but has AC.. this seems to be the only one.
2. Seems like everyone has a digital control panel near the tv.. this one has an analogue dial near where I assume your feet go in the rear bed.
I already have a propane "mr buddy" heater to use when needed...so I guess that's not a big deal... just weird that it seems to be the only one of its kind.. any thoughts?