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When it rains it pours (Transom Assembly leak)

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    reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I would think 8 hours would be a good start. Your stuff has been in and out in the last couple of years so hope things go well. A gasket on the mercathoid would be much cheaper.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
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    J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭
    8 hours would be awesome. I'm worried that this is going to sky rocket to a 30 hour job, etc.. 
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    PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 3,886 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Id think 10 to 12 if all goes smoothly
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    GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Member Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭✭
    I don't know what kind of relationship you have with the boat yard ,but when they have everything out it sure would be nice to get in there ,to clean and paint the engine compartment 
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    J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭
    GMSLITHO said:
    I don't know what kind of relationship you have with the boat yard ,but when they have everything out it sure would be nice to get in there ,to clean and paint the engine compartment 
    I have mentioned that twice, have gotten no response to that point when I bring it up mixed in with some other points. 
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    J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Half way there. They are going to do the cleaning up of everything... 

    Does anything stand out to you? (I know and will go along w/ what the mechanic says, just want to see if you all notice it too).. in these pictures nothing has been cleaned up or removed, 2 seconds after it came out.. 






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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Oil plug is ugly
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    aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 8,810 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Is the last picture the oil pain drain plug??
    2008 330EC
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    J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yeah, that's be replaced with the tube style drain.. just put that in there to show this has been a long term leak.. not just a few months. 
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    reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Doesn't look like the bottom even sealed up. And the trim line has moister too. Looks like you did the right thing getting it apart.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
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    reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    That drain plug is 3 years old, looks like it is been in bottom of the ocean with the titanic.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Reassemble per Alswagg directions
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    J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes, so the mechanic is saying that there was ZERO sealant used. Just a gasket.  At this point I'm wondering if it's worth going back to the place I had this done 3 years ago and saying "wtf?"

    Full disclosure, that place was owned by a friends family. The state took the marina under emanate domain to complete a bridge project, so it's shut down.  However he got millions for the property, so 2500 or so might be something he'd pony up if it really was his shops fault.  The oil drain plug shows that salt has been in there for "years" ? 

    What do you think? 
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    PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 3,886 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2020
    I have never seen a sealer recommended on those rope style gaskets.  Old volvo pentas also used these.  

    To make life easy i glue my rope gasket into the transom shield channel.  I let it sit a few hours before installing so it won't roll out. My old volvo penta had rubber cement in it from the installer.

    Bellows glue or rubber cement, very thin bead,  works great to hold the rope in your transom channel. 3m or pemrmatex weather strip adhesive has been used by some in a pinch.  I personally dont like bellows glue, it gets hard and brittle over time.  

    If your hull doesn't have any imperfections on sealer should need to be used, if there are rough spots in your hull where the seal touches id use the bellows glue or some 4200 only over the imperfection.



    Re torque in a few hours of use and again a few times through this season then back to yearly checks.


    I only consider sealer to be used if youre reusing the the rope gasket, which i wouldn't recommend reusing a 50 dollar part that is so hard to change out.

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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,242 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Looks about like mine when I pulled mine apart. That gasket is round and very soft...notice how flat it is? I wonder if the other shop just reused the one from your other transom asy. I assume that is why they have to be replaced as they lose their shape. The tourque on the bolts is only like 38 lbs...I don't understand why that seal is so soft and spungy...easy to flatten that thing out and get it to start a leak going. Per @Alswagg I sealed the crap out of mine...both sides of the gasket..overkill and it squished out the sides of the transom ring and looks like crap- and I don't care, it don't leak. It is not a real good design IMO. So, clean it up, seal it up and get back on the water!
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    prgrod01prgrod01 Member Posts: 53 ✭✭
    I just took my transom assembly off a 2001 due to a leaking upper steering hinge pin, fresh water boat for the beginning part of her life and salt water the last 5. There was no evidence of any sealant on the existing transom gasket, and no evidence that I could see of leaks anywhere around the gasket.  It was extremely flat and very obvious that it is a one time use gasket.

    I decided to replace the entire transom assembly vs repair the existing. The new assembly has the gasket pre-installed from mercruiser with sealant of some sort (not soft like 4200) so no worries on that side of the gasket. And of course no instructions one way or the other that came in the box or in Bravo 3 manual, just simply says to install the assembly and gives you the torque specs, no mention of sealant.

    I had convinced myself that no sealant is required on final install, but i have read of others applying it, and based on the experience and advice (in particular @Alswagg) I will apply sealant as added protection. 
    2001 Rinker 242
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,242 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Just can't hurt...
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,560 mod
    When my mechanic put two new transom assemblies on my boat 2 years ago, he made sure sealant oozed out all the way around.  I was very happy to see that!  It is very nice having a dry bilge!

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 3,886 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2020
    I just hope he didn't use 5200, if it has to come back off it will take gelcoat with it!  I suppose marine silicone or life calk wouldnt hurt.  It comes back off without damaging anything and stays nice and soft for years.
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    zaverin1zaverin1 Member Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭
    5200 will come off just fine lol
    i don’t understand why people act like it’s concrete.
    5200 is best for underwater projects in my opinion.
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,242 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'm trying to remember what I used....also, what I had for breakfast......I don't think I did the 5200 but maybe a 4000 series stuff...I assume with the crappy seal there has to be some minute flex on the drive....
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    PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 3,886 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I part out a good many of boats.  When removing items i can tell 5200 from 4200!  Both work fine under the water line when applied properly.  

    I want a snuggie with flex seal on one side.  A warm emergency life raft
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    J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Dream_Inn said:
    When my mechanic put two new transom assemblies on my boat 2 years ago, he made sure sealant oozed out all the way around.  I was very happy to see that!  It is very nice having a dry bilge!
    I really should have put it together, my bilge has almost never been dry... just figured it was all that rain that we get in the North East...down here it was easy to say "it hasn't rained one drop in a week, where's all this water coming from?!"
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    J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Down at the boat doing a little recon... Occurred to me I should swap the hot water heater while the motor is out... Anyone have a better replacement than this? 
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    J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭

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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,242 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I assume the one you have does not work? I can access mine with the motor in so I would not replace a working one for that reason!
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    aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 8,810 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2020
    Yes, go stainless. See this link, decent price but shop around.

    https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C2234308%7C2234311&id=2092214


    2008 330EC
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    J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭
    rasbury said:
    I assume the one you have does not work? I can access mine with the motor in so I would not replace a working one for that reason!
    yes, all rusted out. 

    Is it worth it to go stainless if your motor is closed cooling? 
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    aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 8,810 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You won’t have to worry about the case rusting out from the salt air.
    2008 330EC
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    aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 8,810 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Internals are the same.
    2008 330EC
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