When it rains it pours (Transom Assembly leak)

J3ff

ah good point, best one I could find here --> https://www.marinescreens.com/whale-seaward-6-gal-hot-water-heater-stainless-steel-240v-s750e-5827463.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA1fnxBRBBEiwAVUouUoHXCSuAVL8tl8llm5MYirmq4U60ep8Cq16sMGM3f-UIwnoL9fyUFhoCmKgQAvD_BwE west marine doesn't seem to have any SS in stock near me, guess it'd make sense to just pull this one while the motor is out and it wont be that much of a pain to put the new one in even if the motor is in. 

Edit: just realized these cheaper ones are 240v. no good. 

aero3113

Your link is for 240 Volt , you need 120 Volt.

J3ff

Yeah, okay, just going to remove this one while it's easy to get it out. New one going in shouldn't be as tough. Also going to do a plug swap while it's easy... 

J3ff

Here's a few more pictures..

PickleRick

If that corrosion on the tilt trim hoses is more than cosmetic now is the time to do those.

Oem still come black and grey,

Sierra is both black

J3ff

Yeah. Going to spend most of the day there cleaning it up tomorrow. What would you do to that stuff to get it looking good?

J3ff

Wondering if anyone has any theories on where the water leak actually was.. Can take more pictures

PickleRick

To me it looks like the bottom of the shield where the rope gasket is stained brown.  I did read a few threads on other forums where others have used 4200 or life calk on reinstall.  I only used a little grey right stuff atv around some imperfections on my gel coat.  I would have used 4200 but i was worried it would dry too fast before i got it clamped.  I brushed it on to fill the void and then clamped in place.  If mine leaks because i didn't use sealer im going to be more than a little **** as it will take a weekend to remove and reinstall.  On every outdrive ive removed the rope gasket wasn't given any sealer other than to hold the gasket inside the channel.    Both times i removed outdrives because of rot to rebuild the transom but neither had water intrusion from there, it always started at the swim platfrom ladder or hot water heater hold down or rain water sitting in a bilge with just enough  exposed stingers and or motor mounts.  


Make sure your transom is solid as any rot can cause flex.  There were lots of voids in my hull where the ply wasn't a perfect seal to the outside of the hull, a little rot can cause too much flex.

Club soda, c.l.r. and vinegar all eat corrosion.  C.l.r. and vinegar works on rust too.  A brillow pad, a drill with an assortment of walmart or harbor freight steel and brass wire brushes. Plenty of paper towels.  Id clean those studs well too. I coated mine with very light grease and used new locking nuts so that they will be protected in the future, made them slide back through the hull easier too.

I forgot to add new y pipe o ring.  I used a little rtv to hold in place while installing as it's east to knock out.  

Jesus added an 11th command, put 4200 on every screw in your boats hull, top or bottom, just a dab will do.  Boats usually rot from water coming from above not below.

aero3113

Clean and paint the rust spots on the bottom of the oil pan.

J3ff

yeah that oil pan doesn't look good to me... wonder if it's time to just change it out.. 

J3ff

PickleRick said:

To me it looks like the bottom of the shield where the rope gasket is stained brown.  I did read a few threads on other forums where others have used 4200 or life calk on reinstall.  I only used a little grey right stuff atv around some imperfections on my gel coat.  I would have used 4200 but i was worried it would dry too fast before i got it clamped.  I brushed it on to fill the void and then clamped in place.  If mine leaks because i didn't use sealer im going to be more than a little **** as it will take a weekend to remove and reinstall.  On every outdrive ive removed the rope gasket wasn't given any sealer other than to hold the gasket inside the channel.    Both times i removed outdrives because of rot to rebuild the transom but neither had water intrusion from there, it always started at the swim platfrom ladder or hot water heater hold down or rain water sitting in a bilge with just enough  exposed stingers and or motor mounts.  


Make sure your transom is solid as any rot can cause flex.  There were lots of voids in my hull where the ply wasn't a perfect seal to the outside of the hull, a little rot can cause too much flex.

Club soda, c.l.r. and vinegar all eat corrosion.  C.l.r. and vinegar works on rust too.  A brillow pad, a drill with an assortment of walmart or harbor freight steel and brass wire brushes. Plenty of paper towels.  Id clean those studs well too. I coated mine with very light grease and used new locking nuts so that they will be protected in the future, made them slide back through the hull easier too.

I forgot to add new y pipe o ring.  I used a little rtv to hold in place while installing as it's east to knock out.  

Jesus added an 11th command, put 4200 on every screw in your boats hull, top or bottom, just a dab will do.  Boats usually rot from water coming from above not below.

Thanks, yeah, walmart...hmmm that's about an hour away one way.. Kmart is closer, wonder if they'd have anything as far as wire brushes.. def want to clean that up, not sure if the mechanic was planning on it, he prob was but w/e. Going to work on it all day tomorrow and then after work all week. 

Handymans342

@J3ff. You work???

aero3113

Any bare metal that you clean up, maybe wipe some grease on it to prevent it from corroding again?

Liberty44140

Looks like the wood is sealed and not rotten from the leak. was it nicely sealed around the hole?

rasbury

I'd say the transom looks real good from what I can tell. Two things surprised me when I pulled mine off. First, how close the holes for it to mount to the edge of the keyhole, and they really do nothing to protect that raw wood when they cut it out. Yours looks better than mine did on the edges. I drilled a bunch of holes on the back side to make sure it was solid wood and all was good. Looking at the one picture of the outer transom ring, which looks prior to cleaning, you see some of the seal surfaces are clean and black, others are brown and cruddy- I'd say that is where the water was sitting. That seal I'd think could be designed a whole lot better.
Hope they get you back in the water!

PickleRick

The wood around the opening was coated with the same resin used to lay the fiberglass.

Im not sure if rinker used a vinylester base hull and then polyester based inner lay up or all vinylester.  

The gel coat engine bay is hard to paint match

reneechris14

Defender has a 6gal kuuma 120v with heat exchanger for 257.00

reneechris14

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|2234308|2234311&id=1110826

J3ff

Cool thanks. Handymans342 said:

@J3ff. You work???

I do actually work, yes - you retire yet?

J3ff

reneechris14 said:

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|2234308|2234311&id=1110826

Thanks!

Handymans342

J3ff said:

Cool thanks. Handymans342 said:

@J3ff. You work???

I do actually work, yes - you retire yet?

Nope. Got 4.5 years left

GMSLITHO

Looks like the transom wood is real dry or it hasn’t been leaking long and the seal looks good .maybe the leak was from the mercathode system where the trim hoses come through 

trip_n

what a nightmare this boat has been for you

PickleRick

If the starter was submerged, especially if in saltwater, slap a new one of those on while it's easy to reach.

J3ff

trip_n said:

what a nightmare this boat has been for you

you're telling me. This might be my last boat. It 100% is my last 'bigger' boat. 

The ironic part is that this is my first 'better' brand boat newest boat I've ever owned. Usually I was stuck in the 90's. The most trouble free boat I ever owned was a bayliner! 

Part of me thinks they just tried to put too much boat on a single engine... 

Starter was not submerged. Bilge pump has always been working as it should..  The general thought is that it was always leaking a tiny tiny bit and the 1500 mile trailer ride south on 95 made it worse to where it was actually noticeable. 

J3ff

Transom side of the inner transom assembly bracket... This would seem to show where the water was coming in... No? Looks like it originated on there stbd side, 2nd bolt up 

reneechris14

Yup I agree that has been wet for a while.

J3ff

That bolt is much worse than the others

Vs

Handymans342

How old is this boat?

J3ff

Does the inside transom need to be perfectly flat? This one isn't...