Transom assemblies and engine room makeover

LaRea

1/2" Soundown:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9I050

On the bulkhead, I laid it right over the old stuff.  On the hatch, I'll probably do the same.  

Handymans342

Great work

LaRea

I made big progress this weekend.  When I reconnected the batteries, it didn't make an sparks or smoke, so that's huge.  And for the first time in six weeks, I can use the stereo and close the engine hatch.  

Closing the hatch is good because we're having Virginia Winter this week.  1: Snow forecast and panic buying.  2: Hurry up and shovel the snow before it melts.  3: Fifty degrees next week.  

Plumbing is done except that I need a longer fill hose for the water tank.  

LaRea

And there's nothing like the thrill of drilling a 60-mm hole in the hull of a perfectly good boat.  I added this sonar transducer so I can figure out where the fishies hang out in the Potomac.

LaRea

Last photo for this weekend:  test-fitting a new panel at the center of the helm (the black panel below the main display).  I used to have two old-school Mercury SmartMonitors and a compass.  Now I'll have two Raymarine i70 data displays and a phone holder/charger.  I replaced the compass with a vertical-mount compass up on the main panel.  

I also relocated the horn button to a more prominent position to make room for a switch for the lights in the engine room.  

Aqua_Aura

LaRea said:

And there's nothing like the thrill of drilling a 60-mm hole in the hull of a perfectly good boat.  I added this sonar transducer so I can figure out where the fishies hang out in the Potomac.

So was the hole you cut solid fiberglass or wood core?

LaRea

Solid fiberglass, probably 3/4" thick.  

aero3113

LaRea said:

Solid fiberglass, probably 3/4" thick.  

Nice, when I installed a transducer on my 242 when I had it, it wasn’t solid fiberglass. I would think my ‘08 330 is solid fiberglass?

Pics from the ‘01 242 

Dream_Inn

Looking very nice!  I took advantage of the nice weather Friday and finished up my pulley painting.  It's not perfect, but much better than it was.  This topic had me then go a bit further and take MEK and clean my bilge a bit more.  I need to go thru it once more, but the fumes were getting to me after a while!

Looks good Chris.  Although my first thought is that is a lot of fittings on the water lines! How many additional did you add compared to the original?

YYZRC

LaRea said:

Plumbing is done except that I need a longer fill hose for the water tank.  

Everything looks great! So clean. Was the Jabsco accumulator tank original to the boat? I want to convert to a pressurized water system. Sick of the pump constantly cycling. 

Also you should change the thread title!

reneechris14

I'm surprised you did not do a bypass on the hot water tank for winterizing. Drilling a big hole in the boat is always a bad feeling.

LaRea

Yes @Dream_Inn it is a TON of plumbing fittings -- many more than original!  I hope they don't leak.  

@YYZRC I added the accumulator tank -- glad I did.  It definitely reduces cycling of the water pump.  And now that the pump isn't attached to the bulkhead, I'm hoping it will be quieter in the cabin.  

@reneechris14 I didn't think of adding a bypass.  Great idea.  

I still need to run the plumbing for the engine coolant heat exchanger.  There's just enough room for the hoses to run between the batteries.

oscar1

Nice work, quick question did you install the rubber gasket provided for the transducer?, I have to remove my underwater water camera because the thru hull was leaking, and I notice the prior installer didn't install the rubber gasket, plus the inside floor surface is not smooth and it has small gap between the floor and the thru hull nut. thx

Dream_Inn

Where is the drain hose for the water heater?  Did you extend it to the back of the bilge?  How do you usually winterize water system without bypass, just air compressor?...just curious.

LaRea

@oscar1 - yes, I used the gasket.  But if the sensor is installed correctly, water should never reach the rubber gasket.  I think the installer did not use enough sealant.  

@Dream_Inn - I have a guy that winterizes for me.  I think he uses a compressor, but I've never watched him.  It didn't occur to me to install a bypass, but I guess the next owner will find it helpful.  And yes I need to run a drain hose too.  

Liberty44140

With a compressor you do need to drain the hot water heater, I connected a hose and drained it and then removed hose, but no need to bypass 

Cableguy Greg

When I installed my bypass, I used white PEX and you can see it turn pink when it has antifreeze in it. When I drain my tank, I use the pressure valve to let air into the tank.

RiverRat232

Nice job. You should have your own TV show. "Engine Room Makeovers"

aero3113

RiverRat232 said:

Nice job. You should have your own TV show. "Engine Room Makeovers"

That’s funny!

LaRea

I could retire with a million dollars.  Assuming I start now with two million.  

LaRea

I've been pecking away at this project.  Today I reinstalled the trim pumps and prepped for corrosion repaint on the generator sound shield panels.  Also took a nap at 0830, and another one at 1500 (I mean c'mon, it's New Year's Day and I was up past my normal bedtime.  ).  

Tomorrow I'll start looking at the engines - remove accessories, prep for touch-up paint.

Handymans342

Pics man!

Aqua_Aura

I'm getting old as now I desire pictures of people's boat projects and I'm not bothering women for pics ☹️😆

RiverRat232

Aqua_Aura said:

I'm getting old as now I desire pictures of people's boat projects and I'm not bothering women for pics ☹️😆

How about pics of women doing boat projects? 

LaRea

Okay, one pic for today.  First coat of Rustoleum gloss white on the genny box covers. 

The corrosion was worse than I thought.  Once I started scraping and sanding, I found flaking paint all over the place. 

Then I sprayed a coat of primer and found more trouble.  In all the spots where I didn't do a good enough job scraping off the loose paint, the primer worked its way under the paint causing it to bubble up.  So I had to scrape again and apply more primer.

The finish won't win any prizes, but it will look okay.  I sprayed them outside, then brought them into the garage to dry.  

LaRea

Here's a coat of POR-15 on the front accessory brackets.  

LaRea

I owe @oscar1 a beer.  

He asked me about the Blue Sea Systems 5035, which is the ST blade fuse block that I installed in the engine room.  As it turns out, that device is NOT ignition-protected, and can't be used with gas engines.  From appearance, I assumed the 5035 was the same design as the 5046, which IS protected.  It's not (as confirmed by Blue Sea Systems).  

I'm going to replace it with a 5051 circuit breaker block, which is ignition-protected.  This mistake will cost me about $125 and a couple hours of work, but I'm not leaving the 5035 in there.

Thanks @oscar1, I am really glad you asked me that question.

rasbury

wow, what really nice work. Give me your address to send a 270 to- I'm sure you don't want money but just enjoy the work. Really awesome....I thought I had mine cleaned up at one point but that looks as good as new if not better. Will you be able to use the boat without worrying about messing it up? First little oil spill..need pics of that!

Handymans342

I am in complete shock Chris did not recognize this. SMH

LaRea

You tell me.  On the left is the 5046, which is ignition-protected when the cover is in place.  On the right is the 5035, which is not ignition-protected.  I don't see much difference except that one is rated and one isn't.  

  

Ras, thanks for the compliment.  That first oil spill is going to be brutal!  I'm really considering not putting the engines back in.