Another Transom leak

Dream_Inn

Well, I know several people with 342s, 350s, and 400s all going thru the dreaded transom plate ordeal.  Well, on our boat trip I found a leak.  Verified it today that it is the transom plate!  I cannot get thru one year with this boat of not spend 5-10 boat units!!!!!  Getting ridiculous.  Only good news is I found it very early (just started) and the way the water is flowing, it isn't getting in anywhere to mess things up.  Also, having the boat on a lift helps the situation.  So, after talking with my mechanic, I'm going to wait until late August to have it done (things will have slowed down with my mechanic).  Of course I will keep a keen eye on it & to be honest I really want to just get it done.  He also mentioned that usually when one goes, well, it may be worth just getting both done.  UGGGHH!! 

So, for those that have had it done on this forum...what are your lessons learned?  I've already had almost everything replaced back there over the last two years (two new drives, one engine/genny pulled and all redone, new bellows/ujoints/gimbal).  I'm sure I'll have all of it looked and probably half of the crap replaced again.   This is really getting frustrating!!  It's gonna be hard to sit anchored in my boat this weekend knowing I have a little drip in there!!  (that's if I can replace my dang main seal tomorrow morning on my generator!!)  (I have another great story as well from yesterday, that, hmmm, would probably take another whole topic.....ok, thanks for letting me vent)

NavyCTRC

Dream,

I know it will be hard to sit there at anchor with a leak, but I am beginning to think that is why Rinker's have a built in blender...use it!!! 

Sorry to hear about your problem, at least I am not the only one.  How much money do I have to spend before it would be cheaper to buy another boat?  Not really a valid question, another boat would have the same problems, or worse.  At least I know about my problems....

Dream_Inn

Navy, thanks for the reminder.  (I took the 12V one out cause it didn't do a very good job...and I need to remember to take the heavy duty one tomorrow)

zaverin1

Are you a salty guy? By that I mean your boat

Dream_Inn

It's brackish.  So yes, there is some salt in it, just not anywhere near the amount as the ocean people.  (of course I just had the boat down at VA beach when I found this leak).  I'm still thinking with it on a lift the majority of the time, well, I don't know, it should be ok for another month.  Heck, I was told it'd really be fine to wait and do in the winter, but I wasn't thrilled with that.

zaverin1

We see same defect in fresh n salt just saying
people knock on salts but we all have same problems 

Handymans342

Dream, make sure the inner fiberglass is flat all the way around. Thats why Raybos and mine cracked. Hopefully they can just slide the motor away to replace it. 

Dream_Inn

@alswagg , do you usually recommend doing both transoms when there is an issue with one?  Thanks for the recommendation of 4200, I will make sure it is done. 

Handymans342

D_I which side is leaking?

ruwallydog

Ugh! Sorry to hear...that's brutal. 

frodo13056

I give up....... Just how does a transom plate "go bad" ? I can understand Handy and Raybo's issue with the fiberglass not being even but what is the cause for DI's issue?

bry1429

Is a leaking transom plate a common boat issue or is it a common Rinker issue ?

raybo3

@frodo13056 could it be dissimilar metals? Aluminum housing and stainless bolts??   

Dream_Inn

Well, it's my stbd side.  When I have it replaced, I'll try to dig in and see what the cause is.  I was told it is usually just the seal around it that starts to leak and happens with age.  It's a lot of money for something less than 10 years.

Handymans342

Everyone that has cracked or leaked has been the starbord side I believe, strange

MDboater

Is the transom leak problem a Rinker problem, a Bravo 3 problem or the combination of the two?

Handymans342

Dream_Inn said:

Well, it's my stbd side.  When I have it replaced, I'll try to dig in and see what the cause is.  I was told it is usually just the seal around it that starts to leak and happens with age.  It's a lot of money for something less than 10 years.

No, it results from the inner fiberglass not sanded flat enough. 

randy56

Handy just went through this same problem, he is a crack expert.

raybo3

Al on my boat the inside of the transom wall had a high spot and the inside plate cracked. When the new plate went on it was like it was spring loaded. Had to grind down the high spot now all is good. 

Handymans342

Same on my boat Ray. High spot confirmed caused bracket to crack. I can see Als point though. If the bracket cracks that would cause a loose area to leak. 

Dream_Inn

So, end of the month or early February, I'll finally be getting this done.  I chose to let my mechanic/marina owner decide on his slowest time to do this to give me the best price and him business during slow time. 

Some questions I have.  @alswagg Is it typical to replace the entire transom assembly (P/N 6-6315002TP)?  @Handysman342 @raybo3 is this what you had replaced?  I realize if it's cracked, it needs replaced.  What is the typical number of hours to do this job?  (I know it involves removing entire engine hatch, engine, drive, and then reinstalling and aligning)

I have an estimate that includes replacing the entire assembly and a couple of other little things. I will definitely take a look at things when it is all pulled off and will only know more at that point of exactly what needs done.  I'll take some pictures of it all as well.  I still don't know if I just want to go for it and have both done at the same time as I know in the long run there would be some savings, especially if the other side started leaking down the road.

randy56

I don't think Al has been on here since mid December. 

Dream_Inn

One other item I'm in need to replace is my port side seawater pump.  I replaced the stbd side a couple years ago, but now the port one is leaking.  It has the air fittings, and I want to keep that option as I use it during winterization.  Does Hardin sell one with the air fittings?  To be honest, I'm not sure if my last pump I bought has the replaceable plates or not as it was all assembled and I have not had to replace impeller yet (at the time I heard they all came with removeable plates).  I'll be replacing impeller this spring, so then I'll know for sure.  The P/N I currently need is 46-862914T12. 

craigswardmtb

DI - for the transom assembly, if the other one is not leaking i would let sleeping dogs lie.  Not sure how long you plan to keep the boat, but if it deteriorates at a relatively fast rate than i would want to get every ounce of usable life out of it, before i replaced it.  I get their might be some savings as maybe you save an hour of prep work to get the boat ready for an engine pull, but aside from that, i can't imagine there is much more savings that would outweigh getting a some more years out of the existing seal??  Again it all depends on how long you keep the boat though.
Sorry i don't have an answer on the Hardin pump, but i do know that the little blow out system, i have never used.  I'm not sure what the benefit is if you are running orange through it anyway??  I have been looking at those Hardin's though.  Thats a nice piece of hardware.  I have another season on my impellers, i think, and have the SS replaceable plates.  So hopefully one of those are not in my near future.  Now the Hardin/CP Performance pulleys are definitely on the list.  I had a leaky hose i didn't discover for a while and it sprayed on my pullies on one engine, which are now a bit rusty.  Time for SS bling on the front of the engine.

Handymans342

Dream_Inn said:

So, end of the month or early February, I'll finally be getting this done.  I chose to let my mechanic/marina owner decide on his slowest time to do this to give me the best price and him business during slow time. 

Some questions I have.  @alswagg Is it typical to replace the entire transom assembly (P/N 6-6315002TP)?  @Handysman342 @raybo3 is this what you had replaced?  I realize if it's cracked, it needs replaced.  What is the typical number of hours to do this job?  (I know it involves removing entire engine hatch, engine, drive, and then reinstalling and aligning)

I have an estimate that includes replacing the entire assembly and a couple of other little things. I will definitely take a look at things when it is all pulled off and will only know more at that point of exactly what needs done.  I'll take some pictures of it all as well.  I still don't know if I just want to go for it and have both done at the same time as I know in the long run there would be some savings, especially if the other side started leaking down the road.

Yes but they just slid the motor up as close to the firewall. Did not have to remove. Ask your mechanic if he can do the same. Also, how old is your coupler? May as well change that too. Check the fiberglass around the bracket. Make sure it is flat as a board. Use a straight edge. It seems that everyone who had this happen it was on the starboard side and the transom glass had a high spot. It is not affected at all by engine type or size or torque. 

Handymans342

 I cannot get thru one year with this boat of not spend 5-10 boat units!!!!!  Getting ridiculous.  HAHAHHAAHHAHHAHAHAH

Dream_Inn

Craig, I do hear you on doing one engine.  I am planning to keep this boat for a while yet (until I can move into my retirement liveaboard).  As far as savings, it can be considerable figuring cost for just boat pull and hatch removal.  Luckily I'm getting a 'deal' on boat pull and winter storage.  As for the seawater pump, I do use the air blow it and like that ability.  Even if it means I can't get the pump with replaceable plates.  I really don't have much issue with rust, maybe cause my engines are up a bit with dry bilge (maybe also keeping it on a lift helps).

Handy, I'm not sure how much it would save just moving the engine forward, but worth thinking about.  I definitely want to check the coupler.  I'll have to see if I've had it replaced since I bought the boat (I've had enough of the same 5-10 to 25 boat unit years, that I'll have to look at paperwork).  I'll also look at the fiberglass as well.  Was your entire transom assembly replaced?

Handymans342

  Was your entire transom assembly replaced? No, just the inside bracket. That dont cost too much. Al posted a link for like $169? I dont remember. You will have to search my post on it. 

reneechris14

Dream the harden pump is just the front.the back stays with the air lines.there is a stainless steel wear plate to cover the scoring. Take note it uses a different impeller.

Handymans342

Dream is taking forever to answer. He must be actually working. Maybe Trump will cut his budget and he will have to do 2 mans job LOLLOLL

reneechris14

That's the pump dream only 1/2 a boat unit