Pulled my props off and going to send them to the prop shop to have some pitch removed. Hoping to be able to increase my rpm so I can reduce gallons per hour and lessen the load on the engines.
Pulled my props off and going to send them to the prop shop to have some pitch removed. Hoping to be able to increase my rpm so I can reduce gallons per hour and lessen the load on the engines.
Here’s a pic of when I first looked at my 330 and how I keep it I’m my backyard now. If you zoom in, you can see the blocks and stands all have a plywood base to spread the load. I highly recommend for you to request to have a wood base. I wonder how insurance would handle the claim if something happened?
I had my forwarded window panels replaced a few weeks ago. Used the original surroundings with the buttons and zippers, just replaced the clear panels. I installed them today. Very happy.
One thing I thought to be a design “crap, we didn’t think of that” was the stapling of seat back material to the plastic backing producing a nice perforated line. After many years of flexing, warm and cold the plastic weakens and snaps along the edge. Took the plunge (with my canvass/vinyl guys guidance) and decided to replace as the fixes I had tried came to the same fate - no good!
A sheet of 96x48x1/8”. HDPE from Grainger ($85), under $20 hot knife from Harbor Freight, careful marking with china pencils and a white sharpie from the Depot and a few holes punched in fingers from staple removing and the first small one ready for vinyl reattachment - not my job though.
Today I fixed a devious "reverse polarity" problem in my shore power system.
The symptom was that I was getting the red light, but only when using the port side (transom) power inlets. My first response was to replace the shore power receptacles, which have been the source of the problem for some people. It didn't help.
After much trouble-shooting and tail-chasing, I found the problem: a failing connector at the disconnect switch in the cockpit. It's one of those Anderson PowerPole connectors that Rinker used for high-voltage connections. It looked fine on the outside, but I couldn't unplug it no matter how hard I tried. When I eventually pried it apart with a screwdriver, I could see just a little bit of melting.
Rather than trying to rebuild or replace the connector, I just connected the wires directly using crimped heat-shrink butt connectors.
Comments
Pulled my props off and going to send them to the prop shop to have some pitch removed. Hoping to be able to increase my rpm so I can reduce gallons per hour and lessen the load on the engines.
Really cool video on propeller & skeg repair…
https://youtu.be/YgWlPRMRM3E
that is cool. Those are the guys that are going to do my props.
Kawartha guys know how to fix props - lotta rock up in that area. Most boats up there zip tie an extra prop somewhere in the bilge.
Nice to know that the stands work!! Thanks for trying them out for us! 😂
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
A sheet of 96x48x1/8”. HDPE from Grainger ($85), under $20 hot knife from Harbor Freight, careful marking with china pencils and a white sharpie from the Depot and a few holes punched in fingers from staple removing and the first small one ready for vinyl reattachment - not my job though.
Going out now to do the long one next to it.
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
And only when I was done did I realize the 3 vent holes were “310”
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
The symptom was that I was getting the red light, but only when using the port side (transom) power inlets. My first response was to replace the shore power receptacles, which have been the source of the problem for some people. It didn't help.
After much trouble-shooting and tail-chasing, I found the problem: a failing connector at the disconnect switch in the cockpit. It's one of those Anderson PowerPole connectors that Rinker used for high-voltage connections. It looked fine on the outside, but I couldn't unplug it no matter how hard I tried. When I eventually pried it apart with a screwdriver, I could see just a little bit of melting.
Rather than trying to rebuild or replace the connector, I just connected the wires directly using crimped heat-shrink butt connectors.