What did you do to your boat today

aero3113

@PickleRick you should use Starbrite deck cleaner and be done with it. Just scrub it every so often with the deck cleaner. I found waxing non-skid gets VERY slippery.

aero3113

I think Starbrite has a specific non-skid wax (or protector) also.

PickleRick

@aero3113 just placed and order, I'll give it a try.  

aero3113

👍🏻⚓️

MH342

I use the starbrite non skid wax and it works well. Not slippery and it seems to help prevent chalking.  My annual nonskid routine was to use meguires 771 heavy oxidation scrub with a round carpet brush on the buffer and followup with the starbrite nonskid wax.  The meguires is not as heavy a cut as compound but it seems to cut through the chalkiness and it doesn’t have a wax base like compound, so it won’t leave anything slippery.  It’s not a magic bullet for Rinker’s horrible sanded nonskid, but it really help prevent staining for about 1/2 a season. If I get the time and motivation to reapply the wax then it would last all season. 

PickleRick

aero3113 said:

👍🏻⚓️

Thank you for the recommendation 

PickleRick

MH342 said:

I use the starbrite non skid wax and it works well. Not slippery and it seems to help prevent chalking.  My annual nonskid routine was to use meguires 771 heavy oxidation scrub with a round carpet brush on the buffer and followup with the starbrite nonskid wax.  The meguires is not as heavy a cut as compound but it seems to cut through the chalkiness and it doesn’t have a wax base like compound, so it won’t leave anything slippery.  It’s not a magic bullet for Rinker’s horrible sanded nonskid, but it really help prevent staining for about 1/2 a season. If I get the time and motivation to reapply the wax then it would last all season. 

I tried that on the rinker I had before my bayliner, a 93 or 92 model so plenty of oxidation.   My experience was the same, looked new for half the season.  And I kept it under a carport when not in use.  

It was easier to clean and start over with McGuire's wax than polyglow. I didn't have to break out the paint thinner. 

Maybe the secret to keeping a new looking boat all seasons is purchasing a new boat 

Polyglow works better on headlights than the McGuire's 3 step.   These have LED bulbs in them so they don't get very hot.   Knocks the haze out for months. Not new glass look but much improved 

aero3113

@YYZRC , I came across this listing. Figured I’d pass it along. Maybe he has some parts you need or can’t find. Says US shipping but maybe he’ll ship to Canada.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/353814663820993/?mibextid=T6ff65

YYZRC

Thanks @aero3113 !

Liberty44140

I’ve always been a fan of starbrite deck cleaner but the boat washers on our dock use woody wax pine boat cleaner and it does a great job, switching to woody next year 

PickleRick

PickleRick

I tried the starbrite deck cleaner today.  It's works well.   I've been using the cheap 4 buck (used to be 1-2 bucks) store brand bathroom cleaner with bleach for years. 


My decks are stained due to red clay, lots of iron in our soil that turns everything orange.  There are also plenty of black finger prints from doing the oil change on the diesel.  Then there's the what's left of polyglow that worked amazing on the sides and top of the boat but not the non skid.    That crap is stubborn. 

The bathroom bleach cleaner does zilch for the polyglow.  It works like a charm on the red clay, mildew and scuff mark stains.


The starbrite does pretty good on the bulk of the polyglow, red clay and scuff marks 

Use the bathroom bleach before doing starbight and 90% of the work is done.   I found this works better than using starbight twice and it's much cheaper.  I like cheap 

For the stubborn left over polyglow that won't come off acetone or laquer thinner gets what's left. 


Since the acetone removes the deck protection the starbight leaves behind I went back over it.  I also have the spray on  wax and I'll use McGuire's 3 step clean/wax/polish to finish the smooth areas around the non skid.  

mbnarney

Question, is that the spray on deck wax your using?

YYZRC

Picked up the new hull. Got the motor from the old hull to the new. Coolant and plugs changed. Waiting on the new seals for the jet drive assembly to finish her up. 

PickleRick

mbnarney said:

Question, is that the spray on deck wax your using?

Starbight that @aero3113 suggested.  Super easy application 

GMSLITHO

finally got the boat home ,winterized and back to the marina for the winter ,past 3 weeks was busy moving the business due to a $4000 a month rent increase 

DanD2

PickleRick said:

........
My decks are stained due to red clay, lots of iron in our soil that turns everything orange.  There are also plenty of black finger prints from doing the oil change on the diesel.  Then there's the what's left of polyglow that worked amazing on the sides and top of the boat but not the non skid.    That crap is stubborn. 

The bathroom bleach cleaner does zilch for the polyglow.  It works like a charm on the red clay, mildew and scuff mark stains.


The starbrite does pretty good on the bulk of the polyglow, red clay and scuff marks 

Use the bathroom bleach before doing starbight and 90% of the work is done.   I found this works better than using starbight twice and it's much cheaper.  I like cheap 

For the stubborn left over polyglow that won't come off acetone or laquer thinner gets what's left. 


Since the acetone removes the deck protection the starbight leaves behind I went back over it.  I also have the spray on  wax and I'll use McGuire's 3 step clean/wax/polish to finish the smooth areas around the non skid.  

Did you try Poli-Strip? I used to use that on my Rinker and it worked pretty well.

PickleRick

DanD2 said:

PickleRick said:

........
My decks are stained due to red clay, lots of iron in our soil that turns everything orange.  There are also plenty of black finger prints from doing the oil change on the diesel.  Then there's the what's left of polyglow that worked amazing on the sides and top of the boat but not the non skid.    That crap is stubborn. 

The bathroom bleach cleaner does zilch for the polyglow.  It works like a charm on the red clay, mildew and scuff mark stains.


The starbrite does pretty good on the bulk of the polyglow, red clay and scuff marks 

Use the bathroom bleach before doing starbight and 90% of the work is done.   I found this works better than using starbight twice and it's much cheaper.  I like cheap 

For the stubborn left over polyglow that won't come off acetone or laquer thinner gets what's left. 


Since the acetone removes the deck protection the starbight leaves behind I went back over it.  I also have the spray on  wax and I'll use McGuire's 3 step clean/wax/polish to finish the smooth areas around the non skid.  

Did you try Poli-Strip? I used to use that on my Rinker and it worked pretty well.

I have not tried that.   The next time I need to beef up an amazing or Walmart.com order to get free shipping I'll add some to try.  So far what I've been using has worked well with very little elbow grease. 


Medium grit cleaner/wax from starbrite for smooth gel coat arrived today as I'm not enjoying the McGuire's 3 step process, even with a buffer it's time consuming.

The only polyglow I'll be leaving on at this time as it still looks good is from my bottom coat to my rub rail and the hard top.  This may change come spring.  

My boat sits on a trailer in the drive way so I'm taking advantage of cleaning/waxing small areas as I have free time so maybe I'll have a spring launch where my only task before heading to the lake is my impeller change.

Ill installe a Hawkeye depth finder with temp gauge thru hull transducer when it arrives this week to replace the trasom mount one that doesn't like the turbulence of the trim tabs at speeds above idle. 


Also upgrading my Garmin 43 model echo map to a thru hull to improve reading at speed.   I'd like to launch with nothing but a leg and tabs hanging from the transom below the water line come spring 

TonyG13

After my GPS failed I'm redoing stuff on my arch and started to remove the GPS base today. Got the nuts off, but this thing is stuck on. I'm guessing 5200 was used since it doesn't budge?

Any suggestions on how to remove without damaging the arch? My thought was to mask the entire area with painters tape then hammer tap a thin paint scraper under the base to try and break it loose. Good idea or no? 

aero3113

Try a heat gun or hairdryer to soften it up and it should pull off.

YYZRC

Pick up a mini pry bar and put a piece of cardboard under it. 

TonyG13

aero3113 said:

Try a heat gun or hairdryer to soften it up and it should pull off.

I like that. Thanks!

TonyG13

YYZRC said:

Pick up a mini pry bar and put a piece of cardboard under it. 

I do have a micro-bar, but thought a scraper would be thinner and less potential damaging.

I think I may try a combo of both yours and @YYZRC's suggestion. Thanks!

mbnarney

If your worried about damage you might try the hair dryer and use a non marring auto trim tool. I have put some pretty serious pressure on mine and it's yet to break. 

LaRea

You could also try twisting instead of prying.  Big pair of channel-locks and put some torque on it.  

TonyG13

LaRea said:

You could also try twisting instead of prying.  Big pair of channel-locks and put some torque on it.  

Tried that. Solid as a rock. 

LaRea

Then heat and a thin blade.  Wouldn't have this problem if the PO had used butyl tape! 

YYZRC

Seems like it was the only place Rinker used ample sealant. 

Ian

How about fishing line, thin enough and pull back and forth, maybe break the seal.

PickleRick

TonyG13 said:

After my GPS failed I'm redoing stuff on my arch and started to remove the GPS base today. Got the nuts off, but this thing is stuck on. I'm guessing 5200 was used since it doesn't budge?

Any suggestions on how to remove without damaging the arch? My thought was to mask the entire area with painters tape then hammer tap a thin paint scraper under the base to try and break it loose. Good idea or no? 

I'm assuming you don't want to damage anything on removal.  West Marine sells antibond.    Pair this with a guitar or piano string and you can likely get it off without cracking any gel coat.   It will be time consuming.  It will suck.   This is why people are now using butyl tape to bed things that may need to be removed in the future.